I have a coleman DGRT075AVA model furnace. Recently it does not seem like the unit is producing the same amount of heat as in the past. I was wondering if the tip needs to be changed or is there an adjustment for the oxygen mix. I did some reading on the subject via internet and in most cases the technicians say that the flame on the furnace should be blue in color. (Mine is not) They also go on to say that when the flame is white or yellow in color that there may be a problem. As a side note this unit is burning LP gas. The flame seems strong when lit and I seem to be getting suffiecient heat but not real hot heat. Should I be worried about the color of the flame and is there anything that I can do to improve efficiency of the unit.
Thanks
Concerned
Coleman Heater flame color
Hi,
The flame should be blue. Yes you should be concerned.
This could be a few things, but without proper tools/equipment and training, you could make it worse trying to adjust it.
With that and it being LP, more volatile than Nat.Gas, it is best to have a Tech inspect it and make corrections.
Take care and best wishes,
Robert
The flame should be blue. Yes you should be concerned.
This could be a few things, but without proper tools/equipment and training, you could make it worse trying to adjust it.
With that and it being LP, more volatile than Nat.Gas, it is best to have a Tech inspect it and make corrections.
Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
Thank you very much Robert for your quick response. I definitely will have it looked at.
Again Thanks for your
Swift reply
Bocat
Again Thanks for your
Swift reply
Bocat
Hi Robert thank you again for your advice. I had a service technician out this morning and it was bad news I think. He said that the heat exchanger is cracked and that the furnace needs to be replaced. Can just the heat exchanger be replaced? If so which is the better value replace the furnace or just the heat exchanger. Furnace is approximately 14 years old. Also does the furnace need to be an exact match or can another brand / model be used? If so what is your recommendation. I know that I am asking a lot of questions but I am trying to determine the best quality / value to rectify this problem.
I think it is wonderful what you and this web site is doing helping out the normal consumer. Thank you again for the excellent advice you provided.
Bocat
I think it is wonderful what you and this web site is doing helping out the normal consumer. Thank you again for the excellent advice you provided.
Bocat
Last question Robert. Can this unit be replaced with an electric unit of the same type? I only have a 100 Amp service in the house though.
Thank you a 100 times over
Bocat
Thank you a 100 times over
Bocat
Hi,
Always replace furnace, especially in older ones. The heat exchangers run between $600 and $800 plus labor to replace.
No return on investment, thus replace furnace.
Secondly, with heat exchangers in furnace and compressors in a/c condenser units, both high dollar items, always seek second opinion before replacing unit.
If home has not been added on to, get same size. brand needs to be compatible with a mobile home rating for gas furnaces.
All must have MH compatible blower motors for small MH ducts.
Electric should have a 200 amp service.
Thanks for kind words and you are very welcome, happy to help.
Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Always replace furnace, especially in older ones. The heat exchangers run between $600 and $800 plus labor to replace.
No return on investment, thus replace furnace.
Secondly, with heat exchangers in furnace and compressors in a/c condenser units, both high dollar items, always seek second opinion before replacing unit.
If home has not been added on to, get same size. brand needs to be compatible with a mobile home rating for gas furnaces.
All must have MH compatible blower motors for small MH ducts.
Electric should have a 200 amp service.
Thanks for kind words and you are very welcome, happy to help.
Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
Hey again Robert,
Looking at getting another technician in to get second opinion as per your advice. But in meantime able to run electric heaters and do a little research. Remebered last year I had technician in and he had too replace gas valve cause furnace did not work at all. ( Same people looking at furnace now $400+ last time ) Seems like the problem has been since then last year. After looking through your parts list photos it may not the the correct gas valve that was installed. Can this cause the problem? They installed 1 very similiar to valve #7700-3561 ( not exact ) . However I think it should have valve been #7956-336P. (Model DGRT075AVA) Reason why I say that is instructions for starting furnace and pilot involves moving red lever and this valve has no red lever. (Black twist knob instead ) I was not around last time when work was done so I don't know what original looked like. Also I bought a real good digital readout carbon monoxide detector and am getting 0 PPM from ductwork when running. If heat exchanger was bad should I be getting some readings? Let me know what you think.
Appreciate the knowledge and thank you
Bocat
Looking at getting another technician in to get second opinion as per your advice. But in meantime able to run electric heaters and do a little research. Remebered last year I had technician in and he had too replace gas valve cause furnace did not work at all. ( Same people looking at furnace now $400+ last time ) Seems like the problem has been since then last year. After looking through your parts list photos it may not the the correct gas valve that was installed. Can this cause the problem? They installed 1 very similiar to valve #7700-3561 ( not exact ) . However I think it should have valve been #7956-336P. (Model DGRT075AVA) Reason why I say that is instructions for starting furnace and pilot involves moving red lever and this valve has no red lever. (Black twist knob instead ) I was not around last time when work was done so I don't know what original looked like. Also I bought a real good digital readout carbon monoxide detector and am getting 0 PPM from ductwork when running. If heat exchanger was bad should I be getting some readings? Let me know what you think.
Appreciate the knowledge and thank you
Bocat
Hi,
Correct gas valve is 7956-336P. PPM readings would depend on severity of cracks.
Getting second or third opinions should resolve any issues of whether first company is on the up and up.
Don't tell other companies about first companies and let them think they are first. See what they say.
Thanks,
Robert
Correct gas valve is 7956-336P. PPM readings would depend on severity of cracks.
Getting second or third opinions should resolve any issues of whether first company is on the up and up.
Don't tell other companies about first companies and let them think they are first. See what they say.
Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
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