Seems with winter apon us, mobile homes use up a lot of engery. I live in sorta in the southeast, Virginia Beach, VA. It gets really cold here around Jan & Feb. My summer electric bill hasn't been over 70$ but my first winter bill for Dec came to me at 96 dollars.
So I'm looking for ways to reduce my energy consumption. And thought I'd ask for some advice, and share the steps I've already taken.
I bought a timer for my hot water tank, so its mostly off, it comes on 1 hour before I wake up, and turns off when I leave for work, and comes on for two hours in the evening.
I changed out all my bulbs to CFL's all 15w bulbs.
I set my furnace to 68F, cleaned and serviced it according to the owners manual.
Decided to stop using my dryer so much, and wash clothes less often.
Since I'm a single guy, I practically occupy only one zone of the house most of the time, my bed room where the computer and TV are. So most of my lights stay off.
My windows though are practically storm windows, and I notice the walls around them are cold, also I have some bad drafts around my front and back door, even though the door looks sealed.
Anything else I can do to keep heat in?
Also, I read the fridge sucks up alot of power as well.
Reducing Your Electric Bill
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
I have to commend you on your already low utility bill. To keep it low, here's a couple things that come to mind.
Cover your windows with an insulated curtain. It'll help keep the drafts at bay. If you have some south windows, open the curtains on sunny days and let that heat in. Then close just before dark to help keep the heat in.
I'm not sure a timer on the hot water heater will save much money. Basically once a heater gets the water hot, it doesn't until you use some hot water. I once did a repair and had to shut off the hot water for an old couple. I forgot to turn it back on. Apparently they didn't take a lot of showers, because it took them 3-4 days before they realized they were out of hot water. Some say putting a blanket around the heater helps.
Otherwise caulking around the outside will do about as much as anything in keeping heat in. If you have windows that slide up and down or side to side, I take some removable caulk and put them on the seam that separates the two windows. Then in the spring the caulk peels right off so I can open them.
Mark
Cover your windows with an insulated curtain. It'll help keep the drafts at bay. If you have some south windows, open the curtains on sunny days and let that heat in. Then close just before dark to help keep the heat in.
I'm not sure a timer on the hot water heater will save much money. Basically once a heater gets the water hot, it doesn't until you use some hot water. I once did a repair and had to shut off the hot water for an old couple. I forgot to turn it back on. Apparently they didn't take a lot of showers, because it took them 3-4 days before they realized they were out of hot water. Some say putting a blanket around the heater helps.
Otherwise caulking around the outside will do about as much as anything in keeping heat in. If you have windows that slide up and down or side to side, I take some removable caulk and put them on the seam that separates the two windows. Then in the spring the caulk peels right off so I can open them.
Mark
You can't fail if you don't try!
Hi,
Here are some more tips
Insulators for your exterior wall sockets and switches. They come in packets of 6 for just a couple bucks, you will be amazed how much air can come thru the outlets.
Close the vents in your skirting as well.
Make sure all weather strips are good in your doors, you can also add door sweeps to the bottoms of your exterior doors.
Programmable thermostats are a money saver as well, and do not forget to change the filters every 30 days minimum in your furnace.
Keeping your fridge/freezer as full as possible as helps it stay colder longer. We have a stand up freezer in the garage, when I shop out of that freezer for the house freezer I stick in gallon jugs of water to replace the meat I removed.
Washer and dryers, only use when you have a full load for each.
Hmmm, I had a ton of energy savers I used to remember, feel free to add to this folks..
Happy Holidays,
Yanita
Here are some more tips
Insulators for your exterior wall sockets and switches. They come in packets of 6 for just a couple bucks, you will be amazed how much air can come thru the outlets.
Close the vents in your skirting as well.
Make sure all weather strips are good in your doors, you can also add door sweeps to the bottoms of your exterior doors.
Programmable thermostats are a money saver as well, and do not forget to change the filters every 30 days minimum in your furnace.
Keeping your fridge/freezer as full as possible as helps it stay colder longer. We have a stand up freezer in the garage, when I shop out of that freezer for the house freezer I stick in gallon jugs of water to replace the meat I removed.
Washer and dryers, only use when you have a full load for each.
Hmmm, I had a ton of energy savers I used to remember, feel free to add to this folks..
Happy Holidays,
Yanita
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
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Brenda (OH)
- Posts: 325
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 7:57 am
Instead of turning the water heater down during the day, you may want to get a programable thermostat. if you get a good one, you can program it to turn the heat down while you are at work, up before you get home, and down again a 1/2 hour after you go to bed, and back up before you get up.
I have a friend that keeps her house at 60 degrees, and sits under an electric blanket to watch tv, or work at her computer, it works for her, I cannot go that far.
window sealing kits (film over windows on inside) help a lot.
hang out at your friends houses and watch their TVs (ok, I am just kidding now.)
Brenda
I have a friend that keeps her house at 60 degrees, and sits under an electric blanket to watch tv, or work at her computer, it works for her, I cannot go that far.
window sealing kits (film over windows on inside) help a lot.
hang out at your friends houses and watch their TVs (ok, I am just kidding now.)
Brenda
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Handweaving
Hi,
One thing I do is have two hooks on either side of front door (on the wall) and hang a wool army blanket on it. I sewed a strip of material on the back so I could slip a rod into it. It slides out of the way when I want to leave or use the door. My back door doesn't leak at all. We have alot of wind in the winter here and my front door faces north west.
I had to laugh, I also keep my heat down to about 60. But, that's just me. I like flannel shirts.
I will soon be moving up to the Twin Cities, MN soon... was born and raised there. Showing, again, I'd rather shovel than mow.
Juli
One thing I do is have two hooks on either side of front door (on the wall) and hang a wool army blanket on it. I sewed a strip of material on the back so I could slip a rod into it. It slides out of the way when I want to leave or use the door. My back door doesn't leak at all. We have alot of wind in the winter here and my front door faces north west.
I had to laugh, I also keep my heat down to about 60. But, that's just me. I like flannel shirts.
I will soon be moving up to the Twin Cities, MN soon... was born and raised there. Showing, again, I'd rather shovel than mow.
Juli
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PennylessZ28
The timer on the water tank I actually got from an article I read on http://hes.lbl.gov/ The Home Energy Saver, I also set the tank to 125 instead of 145.
The article said your tank is heating water all the time. Not heated up once till use. If that were true, that water would eventually cool, so it'd have to have a way to maintain the temperature. Makes sense to me, think about it. (howstuffworks.com)
I also heard that programmable thermostats do not actually save you energy because it takes twice the amount to bring your home up to a higher temperature or in the summer, cool it off, then it does to maintain a consistent temperature..
Be nice if someone could show some actual data on that rather than opinions, because I've heard both ways.
Anyone?
The article said your tank is heating water all the time. Not heated up once till use. If that were true, that water would eventually cool, so it'd have to have a way to maintain the temperature. Makes sense to me, think about it. (howstuffworks.com)
I also heard that programmable thermostats do not actually save you energy because it takes twice the amount to bring your home up to a higher temperature or in the summer, cool it off, then it does to maintain a consistent temperature..
Be nice if someone could show some actual data on that rather than opinions, because I've heard both ways.
Anyone?
-
the ozard of wiz
I found clear weatherseal tape to be a wonderful tool. It is 2" wide, and thick plastic. The adhesive is good enough to hold, but won't take the paint or wallpaper off when you remove it.
I seal around my back door with the tape. The insulation is the cheap type, since I never use it anyway, I use the tape to cover the space between the door, and jamb. It makes a big difference. I also cut a piece of plastic sheeting, doubled over. Tape the edges together and make a sort of plastic blanket. When it turns real cold, I hang the plastic over the door. Scotch tape will hold it, and doesn't tear the wallpaper when removed. But the plastic has to be taped to the trim or wall for maximum effectiveness. In an emergency, it will be easy enough to pull down to get out.
I also have plastic blanket for most windows, but I have been meaning to get insulated curtains. It is easy enough to put it up, and the curtains hide it.
My back door is in the washer dryer area, and has an inside door. I roll up a towell and put on the inside to keep that air from coming into the living space. When it gets really cold, I put a towel on the inside of the inside door.
The threshold on doors conduct a lot of cold. When it gets cold, I take a couple pairs of jeans, fold them, and lay them on the floor, covering the threshold, the crack in the door, and the bottom inch or two of the door.
I also use the weatherseal tape to cover the hinge side of the front door, and the hinges. When it is really cold, I can feel the cold radiate from the hinges. Covering that crack and the hinges reduces it greatly. And, you can still open the door with the plastic tape on the hinges.
The weatherseal tape can be used to seal off windows too. I have the double windows, so I can seal the outside and inside windows. When I apply this to the outside, I put the crack in the middle of the tape, and I have about the same amount of contact on either side of the crack, and don't press the tape all the way into the corner, it just goes from window to wood. By not contacting the metal, the plastic doesn't transmit cold. Going across a corner like that creates a bit of an airpocket, which adds to the insulating property.
The outlets on the exterior walls have the insulation mentioned earlier, but also the plastic plugs that fill the slots. When left open, there isn't much air that gets in like that, but I needed them before other places where I live, where it felt like a small open window during the winter.
I mostly use an oil filled radiator for heat, and turn the central air low. I close off the bedrooms so I don't heat them. 10 minutes before going to bed, I move the radiator to the bedroom to warm it up, then I turn it off or low when I go to bed. I am not sure if this is cheaper, but my electric bills seem lower when I do it. I grew up with a wood buring stove, and I love being able to hover over the heater to take a chill off. I find myself backing up to the oil filled radiator like I used to do the wood stove.
I am having thoughts of a curtain for the front of the hall, to keep the warm in the living area. But with the other doors closed, all I am heating is the hall and the second bathroom.
I like the idea of a blanket on the front door.
If you try any of this, like a plastic blanket or something over the threshold, you can easily see how effective it is by moving it, and putting your hand under it. You will see how much cold the jeans or plastic held back. If you cover a door or window with plastic, just pull back a corner and put your hand in the space. You won't believe how much cold will be contained there. I was stunned about door thresholds.
I seal around my back door with the tape. The insulation is the cheap type, since I never use it anyway, I use the tape to cover the space between the door, and jamb. It makes a big difference. I also cut a piece of plastic sheeting, doubled over. Tape the edges together and make a sort of plastic blanket. When it turns real cold, I hang the plastic over the door. Scotch tape will hold it, and doesn't tear the wallpaper when removed. But the plastic has to be taped to the trim or wall for maximum effectiveness. In an emergency, it will be easy enough to pull down to get out.
I also have plastic blanket for most windows, but I have been meaning to get insulated curtains. It is easy enough to put it up, and the curtains hide it.
My back door is in the washer dryer area, and has an inside door. I roll up a towell and put on the inside to keep that air from coming into the living space. When it gets really cold, I put a towel on the inside of the inside door.
The threshold on doors conduct a lot of cold. When it gets cold, I take a couple pairs of jeans, fold them, and lay them on the floor, covering the threshold, the crack in the door, and the bottom inch or two of the door.
I also use the weatherseal tape to cover the hinge side of the front door, and the hinges. When it is really cold, I can feel the cold radiate from the hinges. Covering that crack and the hinges reduces it greatly. And, you can still open the door with the plastic tape on the hinges.
The weatherseal tape can be used to seal off windows too. I have the double windows, so I can seal the outside and inside windows. When I apply this to the outside, I put the crack in the middle of the tape, and I have about the same amount of contact on either side of the crack, and don't press the tape all the way into the corner, it just goes from window to wood. By not contacting the metal, the plastic doesn't transmit cold. Going across a corner like that creates a bit of an airpocket, which adds to the insulating property.
The outlets on the exterior walls have the insulation mentioned earlier, but also the plastic plugs that fill the slots. When left open, there isn't much air that gets in like that, but I needed them before other places where I live, where it felt like a small open window during the winter.
I mostly use an oil filled radiator for heat, and turn the central air low. I close off the bedrooms so I don't heat them. 10 minutes before going to bed, I move the radiator to the bedroom to warm it up, then I turn it off or low when I go to bed. I am not sure if this is cheaper, but my electric bills seem lower when I do it. I grew up with a wood buring stove, and I love being able to hover over the heater to take a chill off. I find myself backing up to the oil filled radiator like I used to do the wood stove.
I am having thoughts of a curtain for the front of the hall, to keep the warm in the living area. But with the other doors closed, all I am heating is the hall and the second bathroom.
I like the idea of a blanket on the front door.
If you try any of this, like a plastic blanket or something over the threshold, you can easily see how effective it is by moving it, and putting your hand under it. You will see how much cold the jeans or plastic held back. If you cover a door or window with plastic, just pull back a corner and put your hand in the space. You won't believe how much cold will be contained there. I was stunned about door thresholds.
Hi Pennyless,
Most water heaters are set at 120*, anything higher will make the unit run more often. If you were to shut the power off to your tank and not use the water for 24 hours you would still have plenty of water to shower. IMO, 145* is a very high setting.
Adding a insulation blanket and a timer from your local utility company will save you money. Our utility company will supply and install the insulating jacket and the timer. The timer is free. This timer basically reduces the amount of power your unit will use during peak hours, they can also install one on your AC unit. For us if you have the insulating blanket and the timer installed (free service) then in turn we get a 10.00 a month credit to our light bill 7 months out of the year. Heck $70.00 a year in my pocket is better than theirs.
Our light company also offers a free manual J to all homes and then will show you how to correct all your heat loss issues. So, if you folks did not know, this call your utility company and see what extras they offer.
The "drape game" is still one of the most efficient ways of keeping your home warm, especially if you have traditional MH windows. The key to the drapes is to also make sure you have them hung up for full protection. Install the rods so they are within 2 inches of the ceiling and 6 inches beyond the sides of the windows. Then when the drapes are installed they cover all the window and eliminate the radiating coldness from the walls as well. I know that quality drapes are very expensive, LOL, I have alot of windows in this home. BUT, check out your local family Dollar Stores, some of them have some pretty decent looking drapes in heavy brocade fabric for as little as $12.50.
Also the use of ceiling fans to keep the heat down at body level instead of staying at the ceiling is a big plus! I keep mine at the lowest setting.
Vent covers, the ones that are clear and direct the warm air away from the walls into the room is another good thing. Make sure all furniture is off the vents, LOL, no need to heat under the furniture.
Another thing I would like to remind folks is your fire extinguishers...make sure they are fully charged, hung in a proper area and rated for your needs.
Our homes are small, and typically the furnaces are installed in the hallways, so if there is a fire you are caught at one end of the home or the other! I like to make sure that at least one window in every room is not blocked by a piece of heavy furniture! One of the best ways to help your furnace be as efficient as possible is to have it serviced professionally once a year!
Make sure that all smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors have fresh batteries. There are alot of you that use space heaters and wood stoves...accidents happen!
It is to my understanding that blocking off rooms and registers are not really a heat saver, in fact your unit has to worker harder to get the proper air return it needs to function properly. Programmable thermostats do save you energy cost as they automatically turn your heat up or down at designated times, opposed to us trying to remember.
Another little tip, if your dinner is cooked in the oven then once finished leave the oven door a jar, let the heat come out into the home.
Happy Holidays,
Yanita
Most water heaters are set at 120*, anything higher will make the unit run more often. If you were to shut the power off to your tank and not use the water for 24 hours you would still have plenty of water to shower. IMO, 145* is a very high setting.
Adding a insulation blanket and a timer from your local utility company will save you money. Our utility company will supply and install the insulating jacket and the timer. The timer is free. This timer basically reduces the amount of power your unit will use during peak hours, they can also install one on your AC unit. For us if you have the insulating blanket and the timer installed (free service) then in turn we get a 10.00 a month credit to our light bill 7 months out of the year. Heck $70.00 a year in my pocket is better than theirs.
Our light company also offers a free manual J to all homes and then will show you how to correct all your heat loss issues. So, if you folks did not know, this call your utility company and see what extras they offer.
The "drape game" is still one of the most efficient ways of keeping your home warm, especially if you have traditional MH windows. The key to the drapes is to also make sure you have them hung up for full protection. Install the rods so they are within 2 inches of the ceiling and 6 inches beyond the sides of the windows. Then when the drapes are installed they cover all the window and eliminate the radiating coldness from the walls as well. I know that quality drapes are very expensive, LOL, I have alot of windows in this home. BUT, check out your local family Dollar Stores, some of them have some pretty decent looking drapes in heavy brocade fabric for as little as $12.50.
Also the use of ceiling fans to keep the heat down at body level instead of staying at the ceiling is a big plus! I keep mine at the lowest setting.
Vent covers, the ones that are clear and direct the warm air away from the walls into the room is another good thing. Make sure all furniture is off the vents, LOL, no need to heat under the furniture.
Another thing I would like to remind folks is your fire extinguishers...make sure they are fully charged, hung in a proper area and rated for your needs.
Our homes are small, and typically the furnaces are installed in the hallways, so if there is a fire you are caught at one end of the home or the other! I like to make sure that at least one window in every room is not blocked by a piece of heavy furniture! One of the best ways to help your furnace be as efficient as possible is to have it serviced professionally once a year!
Make sure that all smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors have fresh batteries. There are alot of you that use space heaters and wood stoves...accidents happen!
It is to my understanding that blocking off rooms and registers are not really a heat saver, in fact your unit has to worker harder to get the proper air return it needs to function properly. Programmable thermostats do save you energy cost as they automatically turn your heat up or down at designated times, opposed to us trying to remember.
Another little tip, if your dinner is cooked in the oven then once finished leave the oven door a jar, let the heat come out into the home.
Happy Holidays,
Yanita
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
Programmable t-stats DO the keeping at a consistant temp.
The difference is, it keeps it consistant ONLY when needed.
What you are doing with your water heater is in essence the same thing a programmable t-stat does to Heat & A/C system, LOL.
Thanks,
Robert
The difference is, it keeps it consistant ONLY when needed.
What you are doing with your water heater is in essence the same thing a programmable t-stat does to Heat & A/C system, LOL.
Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
Hello all ... as I've been reading this thread for the past couple of days I just have to keep smiling ... we have been having extremely cold weather for 4 days now (right now it is -30 and clear) and I have extension cords going for: the block heaters for the three vehicles, the small heat lamp positioned overtop the pressure switch out in the small, insulated, well-house, and to a small, ceramic heater underneath the trailer portion of our home.
Why I am smiling is that even though we have "winterized" our home and use many of the different solutions available (like the shrink film over the windows, servicing the furnace, etc) Mother Nature still rules! I am extremely grateful for the wood stove in our addition ... even though I am burning more wood right now than usual at least the cost to do so is very cheap compared to running the furnace ... the wood stove offsets the increased electricity costs for plugging in all the extras is the way I look at it!
Back to the original jist of this thread ... for ways to conserve electric energy ... I just bought a fold out, accordion-style, indoor clothes drying rack (made out of some very gorgeous birch wood) that sits just to the side of the wood stove - so now the outdoors wear (the mitts, toques, ski pants, scarfs, etc) dry on this rack and not in the clothes dryer. Oh, and we do have an outdoors clothes drying line that gets a lot of use BUT only during those nice, warm, sunny days of spring, summer and fall ... I miss them days already and winter has not even officially arrived yet!
Take good care all,
Darrell
Why I am smiling is that even though we have "winterized" our home and use many of the different solutions available (like the shrink film over the windows, servicing the furnace, etc) Mother Nature still rules! I am extremely grateful for the wood stove in our addition ... even though I am burning more wood right now than usual at least the cost to do so is very cheap compared to running the furnace ... the wood stove offsets the increased electricity costs for plugging in all the extras is the way I look at it!
Back to the original jist of this thread ... for ways to conserve electric energy ... I just bought a fold out, accordion-style, indoor clothes drying rack (made out of some very gorgeous birch wood) that sits just to the side of the wood stove - so now the outdoors wear (the mitts, toques, ski pants, scarfs, etc) dry on this rack and not in the clothes dryer. Oh, and we do have an outdoors clothes drying line that gets a lot of use BUT only during those nice, warm, sunny days of spring, summer and fall ... I miss them days already and winter has not even officially arrived yet!
Take good care all,
Darrell
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PennylessZ28
I'm installing solar panels this spring, been into a local distributor here and getting information. Think I have the system I want picked out, which should cut the bill down to under 30 a month.
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Serena
I put socket reducers in several of my lamps. These change a regular light bulb socket to one for little night-light bulbs. I use 7 1/2 and 15 watt, incandescent bulbs in most of my other sockets. I like incandescent lights rather than flourescents and the low wattage saves money.
I got rid of the large refrigerator that came with my house and bought one of the small countertop models with a very small freezer. It doesn't self-defrost. The large fridge used 7 amps and the small one uses 1.4.
I mostly read by a window rather than using artificial light, and try to get up with the sun and go to bed when it gets dark.
Electricity is cheaper here than natural gas, so I use oil-filled electric radiators and keep them at 55-61 in the kitchen and bedrooms only. I keep those rooms closed so I'm not heating the whole house.
I don't have heat or lights on when I'm not home unless it's in the 30's or lower. I've only been using the furnace when the inside temperature is below 50. And then I run it til the house gets to 55 while I'm getting ready for work.
My total electric and natural gas bill, including the monthly fee just for having a meter (ca. $15-19 ea. month) is $40-60. My trailer is 12' x 64' (minus four feet for the tongue).
I bought some of the fancy light filtering film for a couple of my windows. It does seem to be good insulation. It does block light rays we need, so I won't be putting any more of it up.
I have curtains on a spring rod inside the back door frame. This helps a lot.
I put 5-mil plastic over the screens, making my own interior storm windows. (My outside windows are the horizontal, crank-out kind).
Hope to do a lot more, but there's my two cents worth in case it's useful.
I got rid of the large refrigerator that came with my house and bought one of the small countertop models with a very small freezer. It doesn't self-defrost. The large fridge used 7 amps and the small one uses 1.4.
I mostly read by a window rather than using artificial light, and try to get up with the sun and go to bed when it gets dark.
Electricity is cheaper here than natural gas, so I use oil-filled electric radiators and keep them at 55-61 in the kitchen and bedrooms only. I keep those rooms closed so I'm not heating the whole house.
I don't have heat or lights on when I'm not home unless it's in the 30's or lower. I've only been using the furnace when the inside temperature is below 50. And then I run it til the house gets to 55 while I'm getting ready for work.
My total electric and natural gas bill, including the monthly fee just for having a meter (ca. $15-19 ea. month) is $40-60. My trailer is 12' x 64' (minus four feet for the tongue).
I bought some of the fancy light filtering film for a couple of my windows. It does seem to be good insulation. It does block light rays we need, so I won't be putting any more of it up.
I have curtains on a spring rod inside the back door frame. This helps a lot.
I put 5-mil plastic over the screens, making my own interior storm windows. (My outside windows are the horizontal, crank-out kind).
Hope to do a lot more, but there's my two cents worth in case it's useful.
-
Serena
Don't see a way to edit a post, so will add:
I hang up my laundry, indoors and out. Indoors, I use a nice, fold-out European laundry rack, a pole above the bathtub, and a pole running the length of the smaller bedroom. When necessary I use a small fan to get them dry faster. I do 4 - 6 loads per month, and could get by with fewer.
I hang up my laundry, indoors and out. Indoors, I use a nice, fold-out European laundry rack, a pole above the bathtub, and a pole running the length of the smaller bedroom. When necessary I use a small fan to get them dry faster. I do 4 - 6 loads per month, and could get by with fewer.
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