lar3140 - Roof/ceiling problem

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
For mobile home parts, click here.

Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD

Locked
lar3140
Posts: 9
Joined: Mon Feb 26, 2007 9:49 pm
Location: b.c canada

we tore our bathroom apart the plumber is coming today, had an electrician out and since we are droping the ceiling he said to take out the old ceiling to expose wires and put new drop lights, any way the ceiling tiles are all out found bigger problem my roo f is leaking in a few spots insulation and plastic all wet. do i need to take out all plastic and insulation and redo.also what about roof its metal should i snocoat or is it to cold suppose to snow tomorrow live in b.c. canada
User avatar
Greg
Moderator
Posts: 5696
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

JD our roof expert should be along soon, but I would try to find a way to get sealed at least untill warmer weather.
On the plus side at least you know there is a problem BEFORE the ceiling goes up. Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
User avatar
JD
Site Admin
Posts: 2696
Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:57 pm
Location: Fresno, CA
Contact:

Hi and welcome to the forum,

I lived in Seattle for many years and been in B.C. many times. I would certainly think that it is too cold right now for any of the elastomerics to set right now. Rubber coatings can go on in the cold, but it could take a month to set in real cold weather. A lot of things could happen to uncured sealant in a month.

If you can isolate all of the leaks, you could use an asphalt wet or dry type mastic as a bandaid. But this is the wrong sealant to use on a metal roof. It would just get you through to better weather and that stuff is a bear to get off. It really should be thoroughly cleaned off beyond a trace, before applying any "white" sealant.

I don't know if you have a single or double wide, but you could buy the 16' x 100' heavy plastic to cover the roof for now. You would need to open small slits to be able to push your roof vents through and then tape the heck out of it. Of course plastic wood not survive a wood stove chimney, but should be OK on appliance vents. I will fasten them down along the top ot the walls using strips of wood. 3/8" cdx plywood is cheap when cut into 2" strips on a table saw. I "under-roll" the wood a few wraps into the plastic so the folds are in next to the wall and not on the outside catching water. Not pretty and a big storm could take it off. Kind of depends on your weather. People get by with all winter here in Fresno.

JMO
JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
User avatar
JD
Site Admin
Posts: 2696
Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:57 pm
Location: Fresno, CA
Contact:

Below is the text from the post RE: Big problem

As Yanita said, it is important that we keep all questions and answers regarding the same post together in one thread. Please do not start a new post until you have a new topic.

>Added text_

>>
lar3140
on the inside should i rip all plastic and take out insulation and re plastic and insulate?

Yanita
Moderator
Hi,
Need you to be a little more specific. The nature of your problem, are you asking about removal of the attic space plastic and insulation?


Harry
Once you get the roof sealed up as per JDs previous instructions I don't see why you can't start on the inside.
JMO

Yanita
Moderator
Would like to remind folks when asking a question and then posting another about the same issue please keep your post together. Multiple post make it hard to follow and answer appropriately.
Thanks.
JD, if you are following this thread please attach it to the original thread. Thanks.

<<
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
User avatar
JD
Site Admin
Posts: 2696
Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:57 pm
Location: Fresno, CA
Contact:

Hi lar3140,

Kind of depends on how much of the insulation is wet. It is is just spots of fiberglass batt insulation, I would just work on the wet areas. Cut the plastic down the middle of a truss to make it easy to staple back up. Make a flap to get the wet insulation out, replace the insulation and add a patch of plastic over the cut. Be sure to overlap the plastic quite a bit.

If this is the blown in loose insulation above visqueen (plastic), I would pull it all out, only because batt would be easier to work with. The loose insulation is good stuff, but hard to replace just a little. You would kind of have to make that judgment call yourself.

The loose blown insulation also tends to hold the water longer and is more apt to warp the ceiling panels.

JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
lar3140
Posts: 9
Joined: Mon Feb 26, 2007 9:49 pm
Location: b.c canada

just started taking insulation out. correct me if im wrong but the metal roof is all wet. i think it is just condensation. if i put insulation back thinner stuff so there is a gap between insulation and roof will that help and then maybe in spring put in a few roof vents
Locked
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post