Wiring up thermostat

Questions about repairs and parts for Coleman furnaces, air conditioners and heat pumps for manufactured homes. Click here for Coleman parts.

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mtncityboy

I have a question about instalation of a thermostat.

First off I have yet to find the exact model number on the furnance but is a 17Kw unit in the EB series I believe. This unit was taken out of a mobel home and is now being used to heat a office area. This is being used for heat only and not connecting in to any AC unit.

The wires were never marked on the thermostat when removed so not sure which control what. I have 4 Wires red, green, black, white that come out.

I purchased a Hunter 40020A manual thermostat for heating system only. This unit ony has place for 2 wire; a W and RH area. I currently have the White in the W and Red in the RH area with the green and black leading no where. Thermostat does activate. Blower turns on and then warm air moves out. I have about 95 degree air coming out right into the box at teh heating coils. Is this sound about right or is only one stage of heating unit working? I have let run for about 1 hour intervals and no build up of higher tempatures. Is there a way of testing which elements are on with a volt meter? Can this 2 wire system be used or do I need one for heat/cooling still? If can be used, which 2 wires need to be connected if not connected right?

any help with this would be great.
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Robert
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Posts: 6413
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

Hi,

Red to RH and White to W is correct.


Red = 24volt power to t-stat

White= Heat wire back to furnace

Black= Common wire to outside a/c condenser (not needed)

Green= Blower motor wire back to furnace for a/c mode and fan continous on. (not needed)


Do you have a Fan auto/on switch at furnace ? If so, set it to auto.

Set it to ON if you ever want continous fan.


Your model number will be on a sticker on front facing of furnace, usually midway or down low.


You can test for voltage at each element by placing a meter lead on each side connection point for each element, should read 240VAC.


If not, check sequencer. Should have 24-28VAC at very bottom terminals front to back.

If you have that on both seq. stacks, then need to check top and middle terminals for resistance.


Turn power off, mark where wires go and remove wires from M1/M2, M3/M4 and M5/M6 and tape all ends good with elect. tape.


Then turn power on and retest bottom for 24-28vac. If there with call for heat from t-stat, then ohm the above sets of M terminals to see if they show resistance/continuity.


If not, the sequencer is bad.


Sequencer # 3115-3571 can be seen and ordered through PayPal

from right side here if needed:

http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/ColemanElec.html


Thanks for inquiring.



Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
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