Coleman EB15B Blower

[Glenn70]

I have a problem with my blower, it just won't do anything. I have power (120v each) on both the red (heat speed) and black (cool speed) going from the relay to the blower, but the motor won't turn on. By reading some forums on here I thought it might be compacitor at first, but I tried 'jump starting' by turning fan manually and nothing (no humming either). So I thought it was a bad motor, so I took it out and quickly checked the motor by running 120 (regular outlet) to the red with the hot wire and black with the neutral and it started just fine. Anyone have any suggestions? Will motor still turn if bad?

Coleman AC/Heat Pump
Model EB15B
14.4 KW/ 60 AMP
51,000 BTU

Compacitor 97F900
1439-446
370 VAC
50/60 HZ

Just remember for an answer, I am kind of ignorant when it comes to HVAC stuff, I'm kind of learning as I go.

[Robert]

Hi Glenn,

I sent an email with parts info earlier. That's a 240 volt motor, so at 120 volts, would only turn at a slow speed.


Was it getting 120 volts ac from heat or cool speed and 120 volts a/c from the common leg from breaker or sequencer ?


If it's bad, it will either not turn or will turn for a short while and stop and be HOT to the touch.




Take care and best wishes,
Robert

[Glenn70]

Hey Robert,
I tested all the connections and they are all what they are supposed to be (I think). I got 120 on both wires going into the blower. Everything else (sequencer, transformer, etc) is reading 120(or there about). But the transformer leg going to the fan relay gave me a reading of 48 V. Isn't it supposed to be 24? It's a curiosity to me. I am just gonna replace everything down there, but I'm going to replace one at a time to see what is bad. What order would you suspect to be broken? Top 3 would work. BTW I'm switching the compacitor, how do I not get zapped doing this?



Thanks Glenn

[Robert]

Hi Glenn,

I would start with transformer and go from cheapest upward.


At the motor, you'll have 120VAC coming in on common wire (usually orange) from either breaker or sequencer.

That is one leg or one half of your 240 volts.


Then, the other 120VAC comes in on the either the heating or cooling speed wire depending on what mode unit is in.


The capacitor does not always hold a charge, but it can.


You can bleed it off through a resistor or take a screwdriver with an electically insulated handle.

Be SURE it isinsulated against electrical current and not just insulated for grip. Expensive lesson many have learned thinking any covered handle is insulated.


Then touch the metal shaft across the capacitor spade terminals at same time.

IF it is holding, you will get a POP and a SPARK so be prepared.


You can also use insulated handle needle nose pliers to remove wires from run cap (mark where they go) and then leave alone and don't touch it.

Leave rubber boot over the terminals. However, if replacing motor, then discharge it and move on.


Take care and best wishes,
Robert