Well first I must say this site is a godsend. I will be the proud owner of a 1977 Viking with an add on Dec. 1 and can't wait. A half a block from the beach in So Cal and right next to downtown Huntington Beach aka Surf City.
In the living room (add on) it has the 2x4 foot crappy looking tiles and the trusses are giving, making the ceiling bowed. There is no water damage, just bad installation. I want to remove the ceiling tiles and was going to go with drywall, but read another post and saw the downsides to going that route.
My question is, are there any other alternatives to the panels or drywall? I saw 2 by 2 tiles and liked that but didn't know if there was any other ways.
Thanks and I look forward to meeting many of you.
john
ceiling alternatives
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
Hi
Here's a good old post on ceiling tiles:
viewtopic.php?t=4098&postdays=0&postorder=asc&&start=0
Harry
Here's a good old post on ceiling tiles:
viewtopic.php?t=4098&postdays=0&postorder=asc&&start=0
Harry
Aside from the roof leak, soft floors, rats, mice and bursted plumbing ........ how do you like it?
When You look at the roof from outdoors does it look flat and straight? If yes then maybe the trusses are ok and it is the grid hanger wires that are wrong/sagging,,that's an easy fix and while the tile You don't like is out of the grid it can be tossed and new 2' cross-Ts installed.When/if You get 2'x2' recessed tiles,AKA "drop-tile",the grid is what has the recessed look,the tiles actually drop through the grid about 1/4".
Many of the tiles are accoustical so Ya might want to aim Yer tweeters to bounce off the wall,,:)
Dean
Many of the tiles are accoustical so Ya might want to aim Yer tweeters to bounce off the wall,,:)
Dean
If everything is solid, I would use 3/8" sheetrock. It is light enough that you should not have a weight problem just make sure the trusses are in good shape. Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
With the ceiling panels removed, you can easily repair/straighten trusses. Sometimes they just get tired when they get old. Lack of relevels, old leaks etc.
You can probably get mobile home type ceiling panels to use. They are much lighter and for the most part, a lot easier to install than going the gyp board, texture route. They also won't crack at the seams later.
The panels are called Modulux, and from the company Okaply http://www.okaply.com/index.php You can contact them through their web site and ask for the nearest distributor to you. This may help you with your question in the other post about paneling. Whoever is carrying these panels in your area is probably a mobile home parts dealer. I am in Fresno, and I can pick them up locally and there are 2 companies in Sacramento that will deliver them to my door or job. So there is bound to be someone selling them in your area.
JD
You can probably get mobile home type ceiling panels to use. They are much lighter and for the most part, a lot easier to install than going the gyp board, texture route. They also won't crack at the seams later.
The panels are called Modulux, and from the company Okaply http://www.okaply.com/index.php You can contact them through their web site and ask for the nearest distributor to you. This may help you with your question in the other post about paneling. Whoever is carrying these panels in your area is probably a mobile home parts dealer. I am in Fresno, and I can pick them up locally and there are 2 companies in Sacramento that will deliver them to my door or job. So there is bound to be someone selling them in your area.
JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
If the add-on is designed to take the weight Your choices are improved. If the trusses/rafters are 16"OC instead of 24"OC it will also help.
I would avoid using 3/8" drywall sheets on a 24"OC ceiling,it is just not strong enough to span that far,,You might get away with it,You might not. Also I have never heard of 3/8" Firecode sheetrock,it is now made in 1/2" thickness tho,not only 5/8" these days. Everywhere I've been for the last 30 years requires firecode rated ceilings and/or sub-ceilings,,gives You more time to get away before the upper structure crashes down.
I would avoid using 3/8" drywall sheets on a 24"OC ceiling,it is just not strong enough to span that far,,You might get away with it,You might not. Also I have never heard of 3/8" Firecode sheetrock,it is now made in 1/2" thickness tho,not only 5/8" these days. Everywhere I've been for the last 30 years requires firecode rated ceilings and/or sub-ceilings,,gives You more time to get away before the upper structure crashes down.
- Jim from Canada
- Posts: 551
- Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2007 10:39 am
I would check the structure first. If the trusses are bowing, they could use some help. You may want to try jacking the bow out of the trusses and then laminating plywood to either side of each truss. No sense trying to make something pretty if it will fall soon.
Jim
Jim
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