Help please with Coleman DGAT070BDE "no heat"

[CATAPLT]

I did a few searches on this model and have found a few numbers that are close, but not the same. So, just to make sure nobody thought I wrote down the wrong number I just snapped a pic of it.

Walked into house with temp at 55 degrees. No light at all in the diagnostic window. Turned off breaker and turned it back on. Furnace tried to fire. Could see heater element warm up and gas ignite. As soon as the blower motor turned on the flame went out. It went threw this cycle once again and flashed code #1. Turned on and off a few times, after the 5th try the heater fired and stayed on.

It is 1:55am here in Cleveland in the aftermath of a blizzard. I work nights and even if I did call a service person my snow blower died this morning (great day) and no vehicle without 4wd could get down my 400ft driveway. So I need help.

The sticky stated that you might not sell parts or give advice to people who might not be skilled enough to take on the job. I am a Toyota Master Diagnostic Tech and also hybrid certified. I am very familiar with 600v+ DC systems and understand AC also.

I would like to order ASAP whatever parts you guys think is going to fix this problem, as this is not something that I can have happen again. I understand diagnosing stuff by post in a forum is not easy so if you think it might be one part or possibly another, I'll take them both.

I realize this post is way over the top, but I want to make sure I give as much info as possible to make this go as fast and smooth as possible. I would like to order whatever parts I might need right away.

Thank you very much in advance
Craig Miller

P.S. If you would like to call me to take order over the phone or ask question/advice, please call me at (. I'll try to answer, but I might be asleep.

[Robert]

Hi Craig,

First let me ask if you have had this recall inspection/repair/upgrade done yet ?

http://www.dgatprogram.com/index.asp


Go here on left side of page :

http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/ColemanGas.html


Remote Flame Sensor # 7975-288P/A

Find that next to ignitor, do not touch with bare hands/fingers, check porcelien for cracks and clean sensor rod with steel wool, reinstall.


With the sensor clean and no cracks and a new ignitor and furnace working sometimes, see if gas valve has 24vac at gas valve solonoid terminals when it shuts down abruptly.

If so, gas valve may be bad.

If not, possibly a bad control board.


When furnace quits, see if board has 24vac at W and C


If so, trace wires back from ignitor through connection to board and see if board is sending 120vac to ignitor with 24vac at W and C.


Replacement integrated control board is 7990-320P on left side of above link page.




Thanks,
Robert

[CATAPLT]

I did not know about any recall on it. I am not the original homeowner, so it may have been performed already. I will give them a call monday morning to find out.

The friday after I made this post I just went ahead and called you guys and a gentleman there gave me a few tips on testing the furnace. I ended up ordering a control board. Since the furnace has been not giving me any problems this week, fixing my snowblower was a top priority (have to be able to get down the driveway to get food, go to work, etc), so I just got around to it today. The board is a bit differant, but almost the same.

P/N 7990-320p

The only differance is on my board it has a connector labeled 24 VAC and on your board the same connector is labeled SEC. I am unsure as to what "SEC" means. A google search nets a lot of 24v SEC results, so I think these are the same connections. I have found however that once you let the magic smoke out of things they don't work anymore.

So before I screw something up. The connector labled 24 VAC is the same as SEC on your guys board?

Thank you very much in advance.

[Robert]

Hi,

SEC stands for secondary as in 24 vac secondary voltage .



Thanks,
Robert