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I had ANOTHER blow out under my kitchen sink last night with the PB water piping I have more water line patches in this tin can than I care to think about, the PB's gotta go!!! My question is this... I don't feel like crawling around underneath of this wagon so I'm wondering if I can't connect the new PEX to the old PB and just pull it through from the kitchen to the water heater (about 40 ft.)?? I'm thinking because they're both flexible that I could use a connector and fish it through like running new electrical wire. Has anyone tried this?? BTW, I have an '84 Liberty Peerless. Thanks!!
You may already have one but since you are doing all this work to convert to Pex which uses a crimp fitting I would recommend installing a water pressure regulator and check valve on your main incoming water line. Where I live out in the county the pressure can exceed 80 psi at times and that is tough on any crimp fittings. A pressure regulator is almost mandatory here. The check valve is optional but it prevents the water from draining back out of the house in case the water authority shuts off the water. This will prevent problems with your water heater elements going out. Depending on your location you can ask a local plumber what to set your regulator at.
The lines are run by the duct to keep them warm in freezing weather. Thet may or may not be tight, depends on what kind of day the guy was having. Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
I have more water line patches in this tin can than I care to think about, the PB's gotta go!!! My question is this... I don't feel like crawling around underneath of this wagon so I'm wondering if I can't connect the new PEX to the old PB and just pull it through from the kitchen to the water heater (about 40 ft.)?? I'm thinking because they're both flexible that I could use a connector and fish it through like running new electrical wire. Has anyone tried this?? BTW, I have an '84 Liberty Peerless. Thanks!!