What to use for added floor support?

[Raynebowfish]

I've read most of the posts on adding extra support under the house, but my question that I had wasn't really answered. I am putting a 125gal aquarium in, and was wondering what type of material should be used to reinforce the floors. My boyfriend(Steve) and I are kind of debating on it. The cheapest way would be just by putting concrete blocks under there, and arranging them so there is 3 rows, with 2 rows of blocks. So there would be a total of 6 columns under the house where the tank is going, spread out over a 6 foot area.So it would be one set of 2 rows where the tank starts, a second set in the middle of the tank, and a 3rd set where the tank ends. (I'm really sorry if that doesn't make sense)

* * *
* * * Kinda of like that.

Would using just the blocks be okay, or is there a better way?

Here is some quick back info on the house, its a 1994 Dutch, 14 x 72, the living room and kitchen are in the middle of the house, with the bathroom and master bedroom on one end, and the other 2 bedrooms on the other. Don't know if that helps any, but I figured I'd put it in. I have a 75gal set-up in my living room right now, and I don't have the floors supported, and I feel uneasy with that, and I most definitely want support with the 125. The tank will be on an outside wall, as its the only place for it to go.
Any help, or info on what to use would be awesome!
Thanks!
Sarah

[Greg S]

If it were me, and considering I am no professional, I would sister all of the floor joists under the tank back at least 3X the amount they cantilever past the main I beam.

OR

Near the outside wall under the length of the tank (below the floor joists) I would run a diagonal beam (3 2X8s) supported by 1 screw type jack post on a concrete footing.

I am not familiar with your area but if you have frost heave one support post will cause less problems with moving than two and can be easily adjusted.

[Greg]

Sarah, It would depend on the location of the tank. If it is near or over the steel frame rail you may just be able to add an extra pier under the rail. If it is outside of the rail I would build up wooden beam so it crosses 3-4 joists and support that in 2 places.

Try doing a search for posts by Rickd, he had a huge salt water tank in his. Greg

[Don]

Frost heaving can be minimized or eliminated by taking away the elements that cause it. Three components are required for frost heaving to occur. They are moisture, soils or gravel that has silt content, and temperatures which go below freezing. Soils that have only clay content or only gravel may still heave, but would be much less than a silty soil. You must consider this content all the way down to the frost line and/or to the depth that any moisture may penetrate.

To minimize frost heaving from occurring below a support under your trailer you could ensure no moisture is seeping in, dig out the existing soil and replace with silt free gravel and/or provide heat to the area or crawl space. The safest way is to put in a support that goes below the frost line. One concrete and rebar support post and short beam running across the floor joists (or steel beams?) would help prevent the outer wall from sagging down.

[Raynebowfish]

Thanks, although, sadly now I am more confused
I did try doing a search for posts by Rickd, and had no luck finding anything, other than his update on how hes been.
I haven't been under the house, and I really have no idea of what to look for...I'm sorry I am totally clueless on this I thought it would be pretty easy to do, but I'm sure once I understand. it'll be simple. I have a tendency to over-analyze.

I think I am going to go with option 2, doing the screw type jack and such, because, well, I can understand that one So, if there is an more good info on how to do that one, and say, what type/brand would works best for the jack, that would be awesome.
So, say I am under the house, looking for my beams, how do I know where the steel rail is versus the other supports? Does the steel rail go around the entire outside of the house, and the wood ( or so I think that's what they'd be made of) connect to it?
I am really sorry for all these questions, and I feel like a dumb a** with my ignorance, but I suppose, we all have to start some where
I would rather feel like an idiot with all these simple questions, than have 125gal of water spill on my floor and lose close to $1,000 worth of live stock. Not to mention the fun of fixing everything.
Thanks gain you guys, I really appreciate it.
Sarah

[Don]

Hi Sarah, I don't know what your unit has for a frame, but mine has two obvious steel main beams that run the length of the trailer with cross beams located every 4 feet. The floor joists will be sitting on this frame. There may be belly wrap or fiber board between? The floor joists are usually spaced every 16 inches.

If the weight of the tank hangs past the main support beam, then you should support the outer edge with a proper post and cross beam (across the joists or across two of the steel cross beams.

Using a jack on a pad is really only a temporary support that could be subject to frost heaving.

[Raynebowfish]

What would be ideal for a more permanent support?

[Don]

As I mentioned, a concrete post (reinforced with rebar) that extends down below the frost line preferably.

[Greg]

Don, I would stay away from below frost line footers UNLESS the rest of the home is on them, that has the potental to create more problems since that support would not move.

Sara, Mark has written a book that would help you understand the workings of your home, avalable in the Books & parts section of the site, Well worth the cost. Greg

[Don]

Hi Greg, I assumed that the rest of her home was on them. My home is on below frost line footers and I would have thought that MOST homes in a cold (ie freezing) climate would be. But you and me know what assume also means, LOL!

[Yanita]

Hi Sarah..

Women to women this is much easier than it sounds to be...

Personally do not stress on the below frost line etc that is being brought up.

As mentioned in a previous post, when you look under your home there will be at least 2 steel beams (I beams) that will run the entire length of your home.

You may or may not see smaller steel arms coming off the bigger beams, these are called out riggers. These support the weight of the exterior walls.

LOL, still with me...

As mentioned, if your tank is going to be beyond the big I beams then you will need to add extra blocking under the tank area.

Go get yourself a couple of jack stands and a pressure treated 4x4 and you are ready to go! The 4x4 will be placed perpendicular to the floor joist, these are the wooden boards that run the width of your home, above the steel.

Place a block on the ground, set up the jack, place the 4x4 on the jacks and raise until snug/tight under the area in which the tank will be placed.

There is another thread (recent) about setting up large fish tanks, take a look for it.

Yanita

[Raynebowfish]

I guess I needed a woman to explain it to me LOL I totally got it now We went and picked up some stands, we bought 2 of them, so thats good
Will have to go pick up the wood when we don't have the little ones with.
We're getting a sheet of 1/2 wood to go under the stand of the tank, so that will help with weight.
Where would the ideal place be to put the jacks in relation to where the aquarium is going?

I think what I will do, is take pics of this, and save it on my computer, so if anyone ever needs help, I will have a photographed directions That way, people won't be more confused by big fancy technical terms they have NEVER heard before hahaha
Thanks a ton you guys! You have no idea of how helpful this has all been. I'll have tons more questions soon, our house needs a lot of stuff done to it, I know a huge aquarium is the last thing I need....But, a good deal is hard to pass.

[Yanita]

Hi,

The 1/2 inch plywood that you are going to put under the tank (on the floor) is a great way to disperse the entire weight of the tank to all the floor joist. It will also help protect any carpeting from water while cleaning the tank.

How long/wide is the tank? This will determine the best positioning of the blocking underneath. These stacks of blocks are called piers.

Oh, and to see RickD pics of his tank I believe you have to go to archives to see them. Click on members list, scroll till you see archives....

I am going to leave you with a link, this will better help you understand how your home is built and learn some of the terminology associated with it. LOL, that will help all of us.

Also as Greg mentioned we have a repair manuel that is great with renovating/repairing your home. LOL, even comes with great pics! We have had many great reviews on this manual.

Welcome to the site and look forward to helping you again. Here's your link...

http://www.mygreathome.com/fix-it_guide/diagram.htm

Yanita

[Raynebowfish]

Awesome, and again, thanks so much. I'll be sure to check all the above things out

The tank is 72" x 18"

[Jim from Canada]

Just my 2 cents....There are people with waterbeds in their MH and not having a problem. As for aquariums, the problem is how the weight is distributed. If you have a metal stand with 4 skinney legs, all the weight will be on 4 little points on the floor. Keeping in mind that floor ratings are in pounds per square foot, if you disburse the weight over a larger area, the floor is much more able to handle it.
You have a 125 gal. aquarium judging by its size. That is 1250 lbs. of water. The glass I would guess is 200 lbs. Then there is the gravel, etc. depending on how you set it up. So lets estimate at 2000 lbs. to give a bunch of headroom. That is 10 fair size guys.
I have no problem with that many people in my house. I would get the weight evenly spread over a large area, making my own stand. Start with a 3/4" or 5/8" piece of plywood the same size as the bottom of your aquarium. Put it directly on the floor (no carpet under it, vinyl is OK). The make 8 stacks of 2 bricks, or use 8 cinder blocks for the "legs". Put another piece of plywood the same as the first on the blocks/bricks. A piece of 1/4" styrofoam, and place the aquarium on that.
That puts your aquarium (72x18) weight spread over 9 sq. ft. which is 222.22 lbs per square foot. That would be like 1 fair size guy (like me) standing still with his feet together. Now, I have jumped in my house and not went through the floor or caused any damage.
Hope this puts a little perspective on the situation. Personally, I would place the aquarium over, or between the steel trusses underneath and not on the cantelevered part unless you reinforce the canteliver supports in that area.

Jim