putting metal roofing over height changes
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Fri Mar 13, 2009 4:27 pm
- Location: Indiana
Can anyone give me information on how to install new metal roofing over the height change ( about 4 to 6 inch step down) on my roof? I'm planning on installing using Marks instructions from the book but i'm unsure how to handle the change. Thanks.
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Fri Mar 13, 2009 4:27 pm
- Location: Indiana
My living room area roof is about 4 to 6 inches taller than the rest of the trailer. It is an old trailer. In the book he mentions bending the metal roofing. I wasn't sure if he meant a sharp bend or just leaving a triangular space under the roofing where that step is.
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Fri Mar 13, 2009 4:27 pm
- Location: Indiana
Still looking for someone to answer my questions about roofing over the height change between my living room & the rest of the trailer. anyone have any pictures or insturctions??
Hi,
I don't use the steel building type panels, but I do install my insulated panels on these roofs all the time. My panels are flat, and that would make it easier, but it would still be done the same way. It would be nice to have a pic or even a drawing. You could make one up with MS paint or what ever you have. A pic would get you the best instructions.
Anyway, I roof the two sections separately. Where the step down is, you would butt the lower section up against the rise and seal it there. This is a little difficult with steel panels with ridges, but it can be done. Depending on what that joint looked like, I would use a trowelable caulk like Ames Blue Max or the Conklin product, and in some cases, I might go over that with the Ames Peel-N-Stick and coat it with Maximum Stretch, also an Ames Research product. amesresearch.com. Conklin and other companies sell similar products. Then I would put a metal flashing over that as a first line of defense. The flashing should also be sealed. I would probably use Vulkem 116 polyurethane tube sealant. I would make the flashing tall enough to reach about 1/2" from the corner to the top section. Here I would probably use a nose edge metal, similar to what they use on shingle roofs. It may need to be bigger than what they sell in the home stores. There are ways to make this flashing and trim yourself just using 2x4s and a hammer. Let me know if I should go into that (especially after reading all this <%^P) Then roof the top section to the edge metal/flashing and put in a overhang lip. Just a half inch or so. You do not want unsupported metal hanging out there. How you fasten all that down would depend on what kind of metal panel you are using, the roof and other factors. You have to look at it and do what is best. Orrr you could include a pic.
I stayed off of this post because without seeing myself, there is a whole lot of guessing going on. While the above is not difficult at all, it is a bit more advanced than just the great instructions in Mark's book. Let me know if you need more of this <%^P.
JD
I don't use the steel building type panels, but I do install my insulated panels on these roofs all the time. My panels are flat, and that would make it easier, but it would still be done the same way. It would be nice to have a pic or even a drawing. You could make one up with MS paint or what ever you have. A pic would get you the best instructions.
Anyway, I roof the two sections separately. Where the step down is, you would butt the lower section up against the rise and seal it there. This is a little difficult with steel panels with ridges, but it can be done. Depending on what that joint looked like, I would use a trowelable caulk like Ames Blue Max or the Conklin product, and in some cases, I might go over that with the Ames Peel-N-Stick and coat it with Maximum Stretch, also an Ames Research product. amesresearch.com. Conklin and other companies sell similar products. Then I would put a metal flashing over that as a first line of defense. The flashing should also be sealed. I would probably use Vulkem 116 polyurethane tube sealant. I would make the flashing tall enough to reach about 1/2" from the corner to the top section. Here I would probably use a nose edge metal, similar to what they use on shingle roofs. It may need to be bigger than what they sell in the home stores. There are ways to make this flashing and trim yourself just using 2x4s and a hammer. Let me know if I should go into that (especially after reading all this <%^P) Then roof the top section to the edge metal/flashing and put in a overhang lip. Just a half inch or so. You do not want unsupported metal hanging out there. How you fasten all that down would depend on what kind of metal panel you are using, the roof and other factors. You have to look at it and do what is best. Orrr you could include a pic.
I stayed off of this post because without seeing myself, there is a whole lot of guessing going on. While the above is not difficult at all, it is a bit more advanced than just the great instructions in Mark's book. Let me know if you need more of this <%^P.
JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Fri Mar 13, 2009 4:27 pm
- Location: Indiana
Thanks JD. I'll see if I can get my nephew to take a pic to put on. I've thought of a couple of ways that might work and yours just adds another idea.
Lib
Lib
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