Granite and all the other expensive tops are just that. Too expensive.
But I had an idea of using Krylon Stone Spray and then a couple of coats of acrylic clear over the top.
The cabinet base is new (from Habitat for the Humanities $30) and a drop-in sink.
It's now Formica on the top and front edge. Might not stick to the Formica, So,
I'm thinking of replacing it with 1" exterior plywood and making the back and end trim from the same wood.
Prime it and use 1 or 2 coats of Stone Spray, then 2 coats of clear acrylic.
They say that your bathroom is supposed to make a statement and mine will say that I'M POOR.
Any thoughts?
Resurfacing a bathroom sink top
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
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I would want a surface that was totally waterproof for the sink area. Even with the primer, paint and clear coat it might not be. Send a picture when you finish. 930
Hi,
I have used that paint before, but not for a counter top surface. You do know that it is very textured. Not sure it would be something you would want in this type of application. Soap, toothpaste might not clean well.
It does hold up well to wet and weather, I used it several years ago on a refurbished bistro table and chairs for outside. Many years latter and it is still in great condition.
Yanita
I have used that paint before, but not for a counter top surface. You do know that it is very textured. Not sure it would be something you would want in this type of application. Soap, toothpaste might not clean well.
It does hold up well to wet and weather, I used it several years ago on a refurbished bistro table and chairs for outside. Many years latter and it is still in great condition.
Yanita
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
I guess it's always possible to pour a layer of clear epoxy a quarter ince thick on top. I saw it done on a coffee table. Thw same thing they use on the Burl wood coffee table tops.
We'll see what happens.
We'll see what happens.
1987 Craftsman Double Wide 42x28,w/attached 28x12 foot enclosed porch/ re-shingled 2 yrs ago. Original exterior vinyl w/no sheathing.
Hey, from TEKKAS ...
"BEEN THAR, DID THAT" !!! ...
BUT, in MY HUMBLE OPINION ::: instead of JUST spritzening a clearcoat : get a can of "MINWAX" (NO PLUG INTENDED) liquid clear urethane ... after the spray dries THOROUGHLY ... brush the MINWHACKS ... dry ... repeat ... dry ... repeat ... dry ...takes couple of days longer, but will give sufficient depth to (hopefully) prevent the "chunks" in the surface from breaking loose ...
REMEMBER TO THOROUGHLY "SEAL" THE WOOD SURFACE B4 APPLYING ... the spritzen has LOTS of water / liquid in it ... and TAPE ANY UN-SPRAY AREA --- once IT gets on, IT dont wanna come off easily .
AND: the "CLEAR" cote has a YELLOW tint ...
HtH
*DANNYBOB
"BEEN THAR, DID THAT" !!! ...
BUT, in MY HUMBLE OPINION ::: instead of JUST spritzening a clearcoat : get a can of "MINWAX" (NO PLUG INTENDED) liquid clear urethane ... after the spray dries THOROUGHLY ... brush the MINWHACKS ... dry ... repeat ... dry ... repeat ... dry ...takes couple of days longer, but will give sufficient depth to (hopefully) prevent the "chunks" in the surface from breaking loose ...
REMEMBER TO THOROUGHLY "SEAL" THE WOOD SURFACE B4 APPLYING ... the spritzen has LOTS of water / liquid in it ... and TAPE ANY UN-SPRAY AREA --- once IT gets on, IT dont wanna come off easily .
AND: the "CLEAR" cote has a YELLOW tint ...
HtH
*DANNYBOB
"Remain calm --- it's all KARMA "
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