Front porch sealing tape

[homebuff]

Just purchased two roles 4"x33" of "Tite Seal" Self-Adhesive Waterproof Flashing from Ace Hardware.
It say's it seals window's but nothing about roof's.
Have to seal the section of my roof where the front roofed porch ( with coregated metal roofing sheets 4"wide x12"long) meets the trlr.
Never used it before & want to know once I clean the two surfaces where the tape needs to be applied, do I need to apply any other sealer (black roof cement maybe) on the edges or the tape to make a secure seal or merely apply it & be done with it.
Have to purchase that thick white sealer to the whole v-roof once I finish this project.
Do I use a mop or paint brush to apply the white sealer?
Trlr's a 16x60 v-roof.
Crimped joined seems on the roof are starting to come apart in some placed but not leaking yet.
Once the weather's dried out & warmed up some going to start the project.
Thank's!
David
Happy & Safe Holiday's to all the staff of MHR.com

[JD]

If you use the tite seal to seal the awning to the roof, it would only be a temporary fix. The stuff sticks pretty good on it's own if the surfaces are clean. But this is like an underlayment product and is not very durable on it's own,

Generally, aluminum makes the best flashing. There are places that you can buy pre-bent awning flashing, which would be your best bet. Places that sell aluminum awnings or mobile home supplies would have it. You can also have it made by companies that make hvac duct work. The home stores sell a thin aluminum flashing product from the MD company. It could be used in an pinch but it is pretty thin and light weight. .024 embossed aluminum is ideal.

[homebuff]

Thank's for the reply back JD.
I already have some aluminum sheeting applied to it all the way across the porch seam but it's the thin flimsy type. It was real hard to deal with securing it cause tried to tear on me but good at sealing at the rolled edges of the 4"x12" roof sheeting on the porch.
May take your idea into consideration & use the tape to seal the seams separating on the trlr. roof instead & get some more aluminum sheeting but a thicker kind instead.
I'm not the best in trying to seal something & make it seal securly. Especially this project.
I have heard that it's not a proper procedure to attach a porch with lag screw's but to leave it apart from the trlr. for means the porch & trlr. shifts around some & cause the porch to lean a bit off it's foundation.
A portion of the porch is on the concrete patio & the other 1/3 portion is on concrete blocks on the ground.
Didn't have the fund's to put down a slab & it might not be feasable being the Landlord might not have let me do it in the first place. She lets me do about everything I want to keep the premises looking good.
She said I could even put down a layer of gravel in my backyard since I never could get grass to grow there because of the tree's in the yard lacking sunlight to make the grass grow & it makes a big muddy mess when it rains.
Sorry! Got a little carried away there getting off the main subject in hand.
Soon as I can get a camera, i'll send some pictures of all my projects i've completed & some i'm planning on starting sometime in the near future.
Some are not pretty site to see. Especially the porch project. It still leaks pretty bad between the trlr & porch where they meet.
Again thank's for those tips.
By the way!
Merry morning Xmas to you & the family.
Hope Santa was good to you & the family.
Have a Happy & Safe NY
David

[JD]

Hi David,

Yes, pictures would help a lot. The porch, the part you walk on, should always be free standing and not attached to the mobile home structurally. The roof of the porch or awning, can be attached to the home if it has been designed and approved for that type of installation. Basically we are talking aluminum awnings. Any self-designed porch roof, incorporating wood as framing, should not be attached to the home.

And I got an I-Pod !!!!
♫♫♫ ♫♫♫

[homebuff]

Thank's for that tip. Kinda confusing though why not to attach the lower portion because it seems that it would wabble when you walk around on it being the leg peers on mine aren't anchored down in cement. They won't allow that here. They won't even allow us to use concrete anchor screw's & bracket's to support the leg's sitting on the patio. The 4x4 treated leg's are merely standing on the patio platform & the other remaining portion on dirt but have concrete blocks to keep the treated wood from rotting. I guess your theory not attaching the lower portion would mean one that is anchored down in concrete, which make's good sense. The way mine is standing doesn't.
Mine has metal bracket's supporting all the section where the 4x4 meet & also the 2x4's. Oh! And also used galvenized phillip's head screws & not nail's. Duh!

Mine is pretty sound structured though the way I built it & probably wouldn't wabble if I go ahead & unattach te lower lag bolts. I'm going to concentrate more on the upper portion & get the thing from stop leaking.
I'll check out some other sites to see how one is attach properly that have pictures to help me along with the project.

You've been very helpful with your important tips & I thank you very much JD.
Hope you & the family survived Xmas Day.
Now we have to deal with the New Years, then we all can get back to normal again.
Happy remaining Holiday's JD & stay safe.
David

[JD]

You've been very helpful with your important tips & I thank you very much JD.
Hope you & the family survived Xmas Day.

Thank you very much for that. As for the deck, almost all of the decks I build are installed on mobile home piers. I use metal piers, but the concrete will work just as well. The proper piers will allow you to use the metal 4x saddles for the beams but it is all gravity that keeps it together. If the 4x4 legs you are talking about are vertical legs to the deck, I have seen that many times and they also seem to work OK, though I would not build it that way. I like the steel piers because it allows you to level the deck or adjust the pitch to shed more water. I usually only plan for 1/4" per 8' of extension so you don't feel a slope.

If you are able to feel any wobble at all, you need to do some more bracing or change the "legs" to piers.

Happy New Year to you and yours,

[homebuff]

Thank's once again for the comment's.
The 4x4 pier's are vertical indeed like most porches are built. Mine was built on a budget. Cost around $900.00. So material was rather cheap except for the roof panel's. The porch does not wabble a bit. Pretty steady as a matter of a fact. The metal pier's you spoke of are a little out of my budget range. It would have been nice to have them since I made the mistake of not sloping it as much as I needed to so i could adjust it to the proper level. Every little piece of lumber was built using the treated lumber. Not much more needed to be said about it so I'll close cause ths post has gone on a bit too long. You've added a lot of needed answer's I needed. Once I get a camera i'll upload some pics & you & the staff can see what i've got in store for other projects needed to be done.
I've got ton's of them inside the house from electrical to flooring & interior wall project's.
Shoot! I probably should just trade it in or sell it right out to the highest buyer & be done with it
I'd rather do that anyway since it most likely has dried out mold under the flooring from all the leaks in the past from all the tee's breaking on the hot side line's. All have been replaced with the hand tightened coupler's which i've heard are just a temporary coupler fixes but are still holding well. It has the grey pex tubing all through the house.
I'll start new thread later on once I get my camera & show what I have in store if I plan on keeping the trlr. Once I retire soon i'll have lot's of time to fix it up if i'm alive & still kicking then.
Thank's & Happy New Year JD & to the rest of the staff.
Stay off the road's!! Gonna be alot of crazy driver's out there this year ending into the New Year.
Lock this post if needed.
David