would it be better to take current walls down and put in 1/2 sheetrock or go over what's there (not damaged) with thinner sheetrock?
thanks,
kristin
sheetrock
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
I would take down what is there, if for no other reason to do an inspection and do any upgrades that are needed. Then re rock the walls. You will have a better surface if you work from the studs rather than the wall, plus in a mobile home weight is always an issue.
Greg
Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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I second Greg's advice of ripping it out and replacing with 1/2". I've got a few rooms I've redone now. You can check things out and fix any insulation that you may need to.
What's there, paneling? At least take down spots where you can gain access to plumbing fixtures like behind the shower to see and makesure nothing leaking.
2009 Skyline Sunwood Premier 14 x 80
thanks for the answers. we have decided to take out walls and replace with 1/2.
re: what's there now. almost positive its the vinyl covered walls, there are batten strips.
we are not in the home yet.
we should be taking ownership march.29. it is a 2002 liberty.
thanks,
kristin
re: what's there now. almost positive its the vinyl covered walls, there are batten strips.
we are not in the home yet.
we should be taking ownership march.29. it is a 2002 liberty.
thanks,
kristin
Looking at going to sheetrock and would like to piggyback on this thread...
Once the paneling comes off and the 1/2 sheetrock goes up, how do you adjust/adapt for the 1/2 gap between the electrical boxes and the electrical wall plates? Wouldn't the electrical plugs be 1/2" behind the cover plates?
Once the paneling comes off and the 1/2 sheetrock goes up, how do you adjust/adapt for the 1/2 gap between the electrical boxes and the electrical wall plates? Wouldn't the electrical plugs be 1/2" behind the cover plates?
If you're taking the paneling down, it's no big deal to upgrade to regular boxes at the right depth.
Advantage 1: safer, regular grounded outlets
Advantage 2: nailed to a stud, not clipped to the rock - sturdier
Advantage 3: you can add outlets, and/or relocate existing outlets to the spots that make sense
Advantage 1: safer, regular grounded outlets
Advantage 2: nailed to a stud, not clipped to the rock - sturdier
Advantage 3: you can add outlets, and/or relocate existing outlets to the spots that make sense
If you have the Modular box/plug combo, now would be a great time to throw them in the trash and put a standard "Nail to the stud" box & outlets. It will save you trouble down the road.StanD wrote:Looking at going to sheetrock and would like to piggyback on this thread...
Once the paneling comes off and the 1/2 sheetrock goes up, how do you adjust/adapt for the 1/2 gap between the electrical boxes and the electrical wall plates? Wouldn't the electrical plugs be 1/2" behind the cover plates?
Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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Probably you have the surface mount switches and outlets, which do not have a box. As said, now is the time to upgrade to standard boxes attached to the studs, with conventional outlets and switches. If by some chance you do already have boxes, there are box extenders available for just such a problem.
Any way you do it, insulating a 2x2 wall is going to be a pain. Foam insulation may be the easiest to work with, but could be hard to seal the joints. You could stuff 4" insulation in, but you will have no gain in R value since it would be compressed.
Personally, As long as you are going through the work I would be tempted to push it out to a 2x6 and gain some real insulation value with out much more work.
Greg
Personally, As long as you are going through the work I would be tempted to push it out to a 2x6 and gain some real insulation value with out much more work.
Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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You have an exterior wall that is 2x2"? I have some interior walls that are smaller dimension but all my exterior are 2x6". IF you have to insulate I would go with foam sheets and cut to fit and then seal any gaps with expanding foam. Compressing fiberglass batt insulation actually lowers the R value. IF this is an exterior wall I would try and fur it out to fit more insulation in. A 2x2" is really only 1.5" by 1.5" so insulation is very minimal.StanD wrote:Sounds like I'll change out the boxes.
How about insulation to 2" X 2" studs? I assume standard fiberglass won't fit?
From what I have heard the easiest way reduce sound is to insulate the wall and re rock but do a double layer of sheetrock with a 1x between the layers to give an airspace that helps trap sound. You can also do a google on it for more ideas.
Greg
Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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rockwool insulation and greenglue sandwiched between 2 layers of drywall. the next overkill would be some hat channel between studs and drywall. (air gap between drywall actually amplifies sound)
recently helped a freind build a recording studio in his basement. we are all researched up on soundproofing now. and just like thermal insulation any unsealed gaps defeat all the other work.
recently helped a freind build a recording studio in his basement. we are all researched up on soundproofing now. and just like thermal insulation any unsealed gaps defeat all the other work.
Everything I know about home repair I learned from Mike Holmes, but he never worked on a mobile...
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