Dishwasher & Water Filter

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
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PennylessZ28

Question, I wanted to install a dishwasher, and I wanted to install a Reverse Osmosis water filter under my sink, but I don't have the normal pipes and shut off like in a stick built home. I just have two hoses running down into a hole under my trailer I guess.

So how do I add these? How do I hook up my water filter ??? The directions are only for normal homes.
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JD
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Hey Mike,

Sounds like you have the polybutylene pipe. I imagine it could be PEx, but unlikely. Either way you install a shutoff, then from there out you will be able to use the "normal" plumbing of your choice.

My company uses PEx whenever possible. There are PEx fittings to convert from gray (rarely black) PB pipe. You can use compression fittings, but I don't recommend them. Your best bet is to get a set of crimpers and the go-no-go gauge. If you get the crimpers, next question is how much plumbing are you going to do. I highly recommend replacing all PB pipe with PEx. For the time being, you could just do the conversion you need, and plan on doing the rest of the plumbing when you have the time.

Busybee just did her plumbing. It would be great to hear from her as to what it was like doing the PEx for a first time. The crimpers, gauge and I believe the fittings are available here at mobilehomerepair.com

JD
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Robert
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Hi Mike,

Just wanted to add to JD's excellent advice to be sure you get 1/4 turn ball valve type shut offs.


These should help:


http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/article ... ines1.html

http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/article11.html


Take care and best wishes,
Robert
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PennylessZ28

Guys, all my lines already look like this

Image

I think they are PEX.

So what do I do, find the cut-off, splice in a line?
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JD
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I had always bought the standard Brasscraft multi-turn shut-off valves, I guess because that is what I had always used. 16 years of working for another company had it pretty ingrained in me. But a long time ago Robert had recommended the 1/4 turn ball valve and I thought it was a good idea. I used them for a couple of repairs in my home and have been using them every since with my business.

JD
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JD
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Yep Mike, you have the famous exploding water lines. Those are the Quest/Polybutylene pipes. Again, you can just convert inside the sink base to be able to hook up your appliances for now, but I would seriously look at a total replumb when you can. The damage from just one leak could cost more than a replumb.

I don't know the exact percentage number, but the very high rate of failure of the PB plumbing is the reason Shell Oil Co lost in the big law suit. Quest was the main named brand. Quest now makes PEx plumbing which is on par with other brands, but people (including myself) are still gun shy of the name.

JD
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PennylessZ28

this is what I have, I read it: Vanguard Thermoguard Potable Tubing PB2110 SDR-11


according to this, I might be able to get it all replaced for free: (http://www.usinspect.com/car/1203plumbingpb.asp), click here (http://www.polybutylene.com/), and click here (http://www.pbpipe.com/index1.htm).


if it was leaking. which it's not.
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Robert
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Hi Mike,

Yep, that is Poly as JD stated. Best to do total re-plumb with Pex.


If that is not possible at present, here's next best solution. The problem was with the plastic fittings moreso than the pipe itself.

If you look closely in that pic, you'll see a crimp ring at a joint.


At all joints inside cabinets,etc., remove the fittings and replace with poly to pex transition brass fittings.

You can use stainless steel or copper crimp rings.

OR, replace with all Pex inside home interior by :

Cut the poly pipe at 6-8 inches inside cabinet. Place a crimp ring over poly, insert the poly end of poly to pex fitting , crimp the ring, check crimp with go-no go gauge.

At faucet end, install a steel braided faucet flex connector. At the hanging end, install the 1/4 turn ball valve shut off with 3/8" to Pex connection ends.

Screw the 3/8" connector end onto shut-off.

Then measure between Pex end of shut-off over to the Pex end of transition fitting. Cut your pex, place two rings on the piece and install between the fitting and shut-off and crimp the rings, then test crimps with go-no go.


Do same on other side.

Personnaly, I use Zurn Pex from a local Lowe's and copper crimp rings.


Do same in bathroom sinks and at toilets. At toilets, get toilet steel braided flex connectors.


At the washer water hook-ups, if possible, go with a 1/4 turn ball valve, one handle shut-off.

It has 1 handle in center that turns both lines on/off at same time and is 1/4 turn.

You can get a transition fitting to go from the washer water spigot/shut-off to Pex and run Pex from floor up same as above, minus the shut-off.

Hope this helps.


Most, if not all Lowe's should have all you need. I don't like their crimpers though.

I have those like Mark sells, but they are pricey if only using for this one time job..

Busybee rented hers, might try that or borrow some.


Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Last edited by Robert on Tue Jun 12, 2007 12:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PennylessZ28

Robert wrote:Hi Mike,

Yep, that is Poly as JD stated. Best to do total re-plumb with Pex.


If that is not possible at present, here's next best solution. The problem was with the plastic fittings moreso than the pipe itself.

If you look closely in that pic, you'll see a crimp ring at a joint.


At all joints inside cabinets,etc., remove the fittings and replace with poly to pex transition brass fittings.

You can use stainless steel or copper crimp rings.

Cut the poly pipe at 6-8 inches inside cabinet. Place a crimp ring over poly, insert the poly end of poly to pex fitting , crimp the ring, check crimp with go-no go gauge.

At faucet end, install a steel braided faucet flex connector. At the hanging end, install the 1/4 turn ball valve shut off with 3/8" to Pex connection ends.

Screw the 3/8" connector end onto shut-off.

Then measure between Pex end of shut-off over to the Pex end of transition fitting. Cut your pex, place two rings on the piece and install between the fitting and shut-off and crimp the rings, then test crimps with go-no go.


Do same on other side.

Personnaly, I use Zurn Pex from a local Lowe's and copper crimp rings.


Do same in bathroom sinks and at toilets. At toilets, get toilet steel braided flex connectors.


At the washer water hook-ups, if possible, go with a 1/4 turn ball valve, one handle shut-off.

It has 1 handle in center that turns both lines on/off at same time and is 1/4 turn.

You can get a transition fitting to go from the washer water spigot/shut-off to Pex and run Pex from floor up same as above, minus the shut-off.

Hope this helps.


Most, if not all Lowe's should have all you need. I don't like their crimpers though.

I have those like Mark sells, but they are pricey if only using for this one time job..

Busybee rented hers, might try that or borrow some.


Take care and best wishes,
Robert
I just went cross eyed.
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Robert
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

Hi Mike,

Why, it is just steps to replace with Pex inside the home.

Covers kitchen faucet, bathroom faucets, toilets and the Washing Machine hook-ups.

For the dishwasher, you would put a Pex tee in middle of pex section under kitchen sink and run Pex over near dishwasher.

Use same techniques as above listed and install a shut-off. Then run a flex hose connector over to dishwasher.

Can't explain any simpler or straight forward.

I guess I could have just put some and we could have question and answered back and forth u ntil all covered, but don't have enough time for that.

It is step by step, best I can do.


Take care and best wishes,
Robert
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