FRP and molding

[RickW]

I'm going to hang FRP Panels on the wall but need some ideas for trim to cover where the FRP and garden tub flange meet. Also, I need to draw the wall closer to the flange in one area. How do you drill into fiberglass without cracking or splitting it? Thanks for any help.

[Greg]

I guess I am not understanding your question.
The surround will go over the top lip of the base just like flashing on the outside of your home. Use silicone sealer between the base & the wall then the surround sits on top of the base hiding the screws. you glue the surround in place (Use plenty, and when you think you have enough use more) then caulk between the base & surround.

Greg

[RickW]

I am not using a tub surround. I am using FRP wall panels. Greg I thought I had to butt the bottom of the panel to the top lip of the flange and then cover the butted ends with some type of plastic molding so it would hide the butted joint and the screws because the screws are not flush. Am I explaining this better?

[ponch37300]

The FRP should still be able to go over the lip of the tub. If it is too much of a lip then I would fir the wall out with something to make the FRP sit flat and be able to go over the lip of the tub. You really want the FRP over the lip in order to let the water drain right into the tub. Maybe fir the wall out with a sheet of 1/4" luan or something. Not sure if that would be best in a wet location like a bathroom but that's all I can think of this morning before my coffee!

I'm not sure what you mean by "draw the wall closer to the flange"? I'm guessing there is a gap between the tub flange and wall? Once again I would fir the wall out if that is the case. If you "pull" the wall board to the flange it isn't going to be tight on the studs and not attached good.

I've used FRP a couple times in the past and really like the stuff. Once you get the hang of working with it it is pretty easy to work with. Cuts pretty easy and goes up pretty easy. If I ever get to build my dream garage the bottom 4' will have FRP so I can spray it down to clean if needed.

[RickW]

Thanks Ponch. I'd like to ask you some questions, believe me I REALLY APPRECIATE THE HELP!
Working with FRP,after you put the "glue" on the wall and put your piece up, how do you keep it from falling back down? Do I need to use the rivets ? I was thinking that if i do, maybe I can put the rivets through the same holes used by the tub flange. And, yes you were correct when you assumed that there was a gap between the flange and the wall. What did you use to cut your frp? thanks again for any help.

[ponch37300]

I've always used the rivets just for added holding. But if you are just going to use the glue then use a notched trowel and then use a laminate roller, like this one for flooring http://www.lowes.com/pd_290291-16878-53 ... facetInfo=, or this one for laminate countertops http://www.lowes.com/pd_290286-16878-52 ... Id=3030691. Those should press it into the glue good and the glue should hold it, you will have to read the glue directions to see what they recommend for sure, believe I used henrybond if I remember right. It's been a few years.

You probably could rivet threw the FRP and the tub surround to hold it all, I would still leave the nails holding the tub to the wall though. I would also try to fir the wall out using something like plywood to make the FRP sit flat. If you "bend" it to go over the tub lip the bottom will want to stick out, or if you push the bottom in with rivets then the first few inches of the FRP above the tub lip will want to pull away from the wall. Plus you will probably be able to see this, especially where there is already a space between the tub and wall.

To cut it you can use regular saws. A table saw or circular saw with a fine tooth blade will work as long as you support the FRP good. A plywood blade installed backwards works good. Problems will come if the FRP isn't supported and starts flopping around. A table saw also works. You can score the back and snap but that only works for straight cuts across the whole panel, which might be all you need. These work REALLY slick if you happen to have a pair, http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW891-Gaug ... ords=shear. I've made small cuts with a pair of bigger tin snips made for cutting vinyl siding. For the shower knobs you can use hole saws or a jig saw.

However you cut it please wear a mask and safety glasses. It makes a lot of dust and don't think it's to healthy for you. Also wear longs sleeves and pants because it will make you itchy.

[RickW]

Thanks Ponch. You have been a great help!

[JD]

Excellent replies from Ponch. i just wanted to say that if you use FRP glue, notch trowel and the rubber hand roller, the panels should stay up just fine. You should re-roll the panels after 20 minutes.

I just install a 5 piece glue on wall kit to a tub that looked much like yours. I used 1/4" plywood to fur the wall out so that the flat panels would curve in when they got to the tub flange. On one wall, I put in some shims on one side so that the 1/4" panel would end up even with the tub flange. It had a bit of an angle to it. i kept the panels 1/8" off of the tub and sealed it with silicone. Your FRP wall would work the same except you want to use FRP adhesive.