Porter Cable Japan Tooth Blades? Floor under walls...

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Billy123
Posts: 41
Joined: Tue Sep 03, 2013 6:44 pm
Location: Spotsylvania Va.

http://multifitblades.com/2-5-8-pc-japa ... blade.html
http://multifitblades.com/bi-metal-pc-e ... blade.html

I seen where you guys posted up about the aftermarket blades for the PC. I bought the 32 Piece 18V Lithium Oscillating Multi Tool Kit model #PCCK510LA tonight. With high hopes it would help with all the flooring under my exterior walls.

Would this beast work okay getting all the old floor from under my walls?
What blades would be best to use for all that work?

Last but not least is this the right tool for the job?
HouseMedic
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Joined: Fri Apr 06, 2007 9:14 am
Location: Delaware
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I don't know how strong the battery unit is so I can't give you first hand info on it. But if it were me, and I have repaired floors before, If the flooring under the walls is in good shape I would leave it and put in new blocking between the joist to nail you new flooring to near the wall. If you want to take out the floor under the sill plate you are going to have to jack up and support the walls while you are taking out the old particle board. Not impossible but it is a real pain in the but. The best cutting blades for the PC that I have found is the Japan Tooth. If you are planning on using it all around the rooms to get out the remaining particle board I would think you are going to go through a lot, and I mean A Lot of blades. This is just my opinion.

Ron
Billy123
Posts: 41
Joined: Tue Sep 03, 2013 6:44 pm
Location: Spotsylvania Va.

Ron thanks for the reply. I wasn't so sure anyone would answer. Just how many blades are we talking about? I can certainly pull the trigger on about 30 of them to get that job done and over with.

I have a brand new sawzall with a crap load of the bi-metal blades already sitting down there. So that's going to help as well. It made short work out of the rest of the floor. I mean damn did that floor disappear.

I have been looking around like crazy for some sort of jack to hold up my joists when I replace the rotted ones. Then I seen this other thread here where a guy was using a long jack to well jack up his walls to get the floor out.

1) Where can I buy the right tools to jack up my walls?
2) I did tell you this mobile home is at least 6 foot in the air sitting on a hill didn't I ???

Also Ron how can I hold up my floor joist so I can replace them. I keep thinking maybe a 4x4 post across the bottom of them but I need to ask you pros first.
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ponch37300
Posts: 622
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:12 pm
Location: wisconsin

Those blades/tool aren't going to do the best for getting the subfloor from under the walls. Jack up your walls and support them and then run a sawzall with a longer blade between the bottom plate of the wall and the subfloor and then between the subfloor and the floor/rim joists to cut all the nails. This will go much quicker then an oscillating tool. I love my oscillating tool and use it for all sorts of things but as much as the makers want you to think it's a "one tool fits all jobs type of thing" it's not.
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JD
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As Ron said, don't pull out the subfloor under the wall if it is not damaged. Makes your job much easier. The Sawzall with the bi-metal blades will pull out rotted wood and sear the nails/staples and such that you will find. Be careful not to cut electrical or plumbing. You could use 12 - 20 ton bottle jacks and a 4x4 to stabilize the floor joists. I usually use 2x4 or 6s as a fulcrum to lever up the wall to help shove the plywood subfloor into place, under a wall. Sometimes it does not take much effort. Other times, well. while your trying to shove a subfloor piece into place, a piece of 2x4 layed flat on the floor to protect the edge from some serious hammer blows. A serious hammer helps, like a small sledge. the jack you showed in that picture would be great to relieve tension off of the wall, but you usually won't have access to wall studs that way. If it is all opened up, I would try it.

with a portion of the home 6' off of the ground, I would start at the local code office. Any time you set over 36", there can be different requirements.
☯JD♫
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All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
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