laminate floor help needed
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
-
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Thu Apr 25, 2013 5:12 pm
i am installing armstrong laminate flooring in living room to match our dining room and have a question regarding the front door. I plan on starting on the front wall left to right and the door is the. in the Jam picture you can see the issue i have, obviously the laminate will be lower than carpet was so how do i deal with that, do i just go 1/4 from the metal and leave it unfinished there and just go straight across that wall or is there a transition i could use and cut the laminate out a bit at the door for the 1/4 and extra for tracking? Thank you
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Thu Apr 25, 2013 5:12 pm
the jam picture is the front door bottom. right now carpet just goes right up to the metal. We never use that door really, but i want to do it right for resale down the road.
-
- Posts: 622
- Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:12 pm
- Location: wisconsin
There are a couple of ways to do this depending on how much you want to "customize" it. The easiest way to do this is to buy a transition piece made for laminate. Usually has a metal or plastic U channel that gets screwed to the floor and then you leave your gap between laminate and the U channel and then there is a piece that matches the laminate that snaps into the track and hangs over the laminate so the laminate can float under it. If all you can find it the T style you can use that as is or cut down one side of the T so it's more of an L and the U channel will go tighter to the door. You can also trim the part that fits into the U channel on both ends so the laminate will float under that part also. They also make some transitions for solid wood that will work. Just go to the store where you got your floor and see what they have that will match.
-
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Thu Apr 25, 2013 5:12 pm
So the metal piece is right inline with the wall so i would do the 1/4 on the other parts of the wall then for in front of the metal piece, i would cut out 1/4 plus more for the tracking system. then just install the transition in that?
-
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Thu Apr 25, 2013 5:12 pm
also should i start on the back wall and finish at the front door or start at the front door area and work back?
If it is the same that is in the dining room I would just continue on from that room. The reason being that if you start from the far wall and go towards the dining room there is no telling what width the last board would be. You really don't want to end with a board that is 1/2" wide next to the floor in the dining room.
Greg
Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
-
- Posts: 51
- Joined: Sat Aug 17, 2013 1:37 pm
- Location: Oneonta, NY
As long as we're back on the subject, a reminder, that in my haste on a small area, I forgot.
I butted the laminate up against the small area of ceramic tiles at the front door.
Probably the extra moisture helped to add an extra cushion .
Easily remedied in my case but don't forget the expansion gap.
I butted the laminate up against the small area of ceramic tiles at the front door.
Probably the extra moisture helped to add an extra cushion .
Easily remedied in my case but don't forget the expansion gap.
-
- Posts: 342
- Joined: Fri Apr 06, 2007 9:14 am
- Location: Delaware
- Contact:
I would also start at the dining room if it is the same and you can either connect to it or use a "T" molding at the Dining room. As far as the door is concerned, they make a strip that is like an end nose piece. It lets the floor expand under it and the front end can go right up against the door sill. They are usually like 3/4" think on the end so it would fit right in where the sill is and you can still lay the rest of the floor along the wall. I will look for a picture of the trim and post it when I find it.
You can get this at Lumber Liquidators.
Ron
You can get this at Lumber Liquidators.
Ron
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post
-
- 3 Replies
- 57667 Views
-
Last post by Mark440
Sat Apr 03, 2021 6:50 pm
-
-
Model DGAA070BDTA venting kit needed.
by spazatac » Fri May 24, 2024 11:21 am » in Coleman Service & Repair - 2 Replies
- 704 Views
-
Last post by spazatac
Mon Jun 10, 2024 3:11 pm
-
-
-
Sagging floor under toilet, need help with size of shutoff fittings
by ferret13sj » Thu Nov 17, 2022 9:37 pm » in Mobile Home Repair - 4 Replies
- 63380 Views
-
Last post by yakima4$
Thu Dec 01, 2022 11:16 pm
-
-
-
Over $400 to get new vinyl for bathroom floor?
by cat_mobile » Sun Oct 01, 2017 12:30 pm » in Mobile Home Repair - 1 Replies
- 29819 Views
-
Last post by Greg
Sun Oct 01, 2017 6:24 pm
-
-
-
A/C and heat comes from the ceiling vents. Are the existing floor vents necessary?
by NanaMary » Tue Nov 21, 2017 12:35 pm » in All Other HVAC Questions - 2 Replies
- 55497 Views
-
Last post by NanaMary
Fri Nov 24, 2017 11:14 am
-