I first want to say thank you for this web site, It has helped me in so many ways. Now I have a 16x80 metal on metal single wide. I have been doing a lot of remodeling over the years and have figured out a lot. But I still haven't figured out crown molding. I have watched all the videos that are linked to post and I can get most of it now like the spring angle and the degrees on my miter saw, but I haven't found any thing about how to figure out what degree I need for the molding going up, (The pitched roof) If it was a flat I would have it already, but like most single wide its cathedral. Can any one help me? Thank you
Allen
Crown molding Angles
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
Well Allen I know all too well what you are going through. My advise to you is to take some small pieces (a foot or so) and lay out a template for left & right sides. I used an angle finder to find my angles and work from there. If you can find a "Close" angle, keep shaving the cut until it fits. I think I spent a couple of hours getting it right. I made my own crown, so I really wasn't worried if I wasted a few feet.
A trick I found for the corners was to build a square block and tie the molding to the block rather than try to work with a super odd compound miter angel.
I recommend buying an angle finder like one of these, http://www.rockler.com/starrett-protractor-angle-finder. One or 2 degrees off will show when doing crown, and you know that in a mobile the corners are NOT a true 90*.
Greg
A trick I found for the corners was to build a square block and tie the molding to the block rather than try to work with a super odd compound miter angel.
I recommend buying an angle finder like one of these, http://www.rockler.com/starrett-protractor-angle-finder. One or 2 degrees off will show when doing crown, and you know that in a mobile the corners are NOT a true 90*.
Greg
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"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
The biggest thing to remember is you have to "flip" the moulding to get the angles right. A compound miter saw is really helpful. Picture the base of the saw as the ceiling and the fence as the wall. That creates the "flip" I speak of. There is usually about a 5-10 degree compound angle which must be accounted for. Practice a few 45s in this flipped manner to create the inside and outside corners then add the compound into the equation to allow for the cathedral ceiling, you will get it pretty close after a few cuts. TIP: You have to put the material against the base and fence just as it would sit when nailed up. It cannot be cut flat against the fence nor flat on the base.
Dale, you have to remember that when you factor in the ceiling angle from the cathedral ceiling it is not like doing a standard crown job. You still have to flip the molding, but in addition to angles for a flat joint, you have to try to factor in for the ceiling rise. That was why I recommended using short sections as templates.
When I did our's I had a finish carpenter take one look at it ,shake his head and said I was crazy. It is not an easy job to figure the angles.
Greg
When I did our's I had a finish carpenter take one look at it ,shake his head and said I was crazy. It is not an easy job to figure the angles.
Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
I just got done doing this with my master bathroom crown...The angle finder helped me out a ton. I searched youtube for helpful videos, but didnt find much. The biggest thing that helped me out was remembering to visual the fence on the miter saw as the wall, and the base as the ceiling.
This is definatly a time a double-bevel miter saw is worth its weight in gold. It got tough when doing the peak, because you have to flip the molding backwards.
This is definatly a time a double-bevel miter saw is worth its weight in gold. It got tough when doing the peak, because you have to flip the molding backwards.
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Thank you all for the info, I am going to work on it this upcoming weekend. I guess I will be bald when I am done from pulling my hair out.LOl