Homemade double wide
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
I need some advice please. We own a homemade double wide that's in need of repair. It's a 74 and 76 single wide. It has double pane vinyl windows. T-111 siding and a rubber flat roof. The major problem is some of siding is rotting and the studs are starting to rot. In the winter the trailer leaks. I am trying to figure out to whether to fix the old trailer or to buy another trailer. Thanks in advance.
The best advise I can give is to do the math. Figure EVERYTHING it needs up and weigh it against the cost of another home.
Most generally when a double wide is made from two singles there are problems from the start so take that into consideration as well.
Greg
Most generally when a double wide is made from two singles there are problems from the start so take that into consideration as well.
Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
What can be done for the flat roof. What would be some option on the exterior to address the rotting siding. The trailer has good bones just like to figure out a way to fix the problems and make it not look like to trailers put to together. Thank you
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- Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2010 9:53 pm
- Location: Steuben County, NY
You could build a new peaked roof over the two, but you would probably have to support it with poles set outside the trailer walls on proper foundations, below the frost line. Kind of a pole barn type structure. The home's walls/ foundation will not be strong enough to support the new roof structure. Benefit - no more leaks, and you can extend the eaves to shield your outside walls somewhat.
]I am having issues with some condensation in the ceilings. What would be the best way to fix the issues. Also I am planning on installing a new breaker box. The trailer has 100 amp service, is the sufficient enough or do I need to look into upgrading to 220. The breakers are not blowing, the inside is corroded badly and I want to fix it correctly. Plan on installing all new outlets, switches and lights. In the breaker box now there is 8- 20 amp breakers 1-60 amp stove 1-30 amp dryer 1-100 amp that goes to a sub panel on the other trailer that has 4-20 amp breakers for lights and outlets
Sounds to me like you need to find out where your moisture problems are coming from before you will know the cost of repair. If the rubber membrane roof is insulated properly, there should not be condensation problems in the ceiling. Are the wall problems due to condensation or leaks? Sometimes the termination bar, sealing the rubber roof to the top of the wall, can leak and just needs maintenance. If your roof is ponding water when it rains, you may have a chronic design flaw. It may be a good idea to not spend money on the home, until you know the full scope of repairs.
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
The damage to the walls was created by water running down the side of the trailer between the gutters. Looks like no one has put any sea lent on this wood for many years. The condensation is only in part of the trailer that was added it only happens over winter. We have a wood stove for heat, in the ceilings some one one had removed the insulation and put up a foam sheets. They have also cut a hole in the of trailer trying to create a vent. I have repaired that hole. I couldn't do any repair over winter to the insulation due to work. We have had rain for the last few days and it has remain dry in thoses rooms. What would be the best way to insulate and what kind of cover should I put over. Would Sheetrock or wood be better in the ceiling
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