Hello all, I'm a new member and you guessed it, I have a problem!
I have a 1989 Champion mobile home that I use as a mountain camp. While there this weekend, I found 3 holes in the floor....UGH! Here is my question.. do I pull up the flooring, some of which is carpet and some is vinyl, cut out the bad section and dig out the flooring that is underneath the studwall? The original flooring is chip board and would be replaced with exterior or Wolmanized plywood.
I have also been told to put down 6 mil plastic on the ground for a moisture barrier, is this the case and could this have prevented my floor holes? I have 6 piers front and back, could I run a piece down the center and piece in the rest using Duct take to join them?
This camp has no heat when we aren't there in the winter and has no running water. I'm not sure where the water came from that ruined the floor although it is in the snow belt, it is not uncommon to have snow piled against the side. The snow already ruined the back door and I replaced it with a foam core door. I had seen water on the floor before I replaced the back door. The hole in front looks almost like water came out of the drywall around the electrical outlet. And BTW the roof coating is only on it's second year and I do run a dehumidifier in the summer when we aren't there.
Thanks for taking me in as a new member, I'm looking forward to learning from all of you experts!
Yet another floor repair question + a vapor barrier question
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
Hi Hotrod,
Welcome to the forum. From reading your post, it sounds like you have it pretty well figured out. Your plan on the floor repair and vapor barrier is correct, except duct tape may not last very long. Probably rocks with a big overlap would be better.
My main concern would be where this water is coming from. Although the roof was recently done, does not mean that it does not leak. The sealants should come down over the screws in the drip rail. The drip rail should be tight up against the home. If the snow will be up against the home in the winter, then you would need to check every fastener and siding joint on that side. You should also check the rim joist along that side, which you will be doing when you replace the floor.
It is very important to seal the water leak or all your work will get damaged again.
JD
Welcome to the forum. From reading your post, it sounds like you have it pretty well figured out. Your plan on the floor repair and vapor barrier is correct, except duct tape may not last very long. Probably rocks with a big overlap would be better.
My main concern would be where this water is coming from. Although the roof was recently done, does not mean that it does not leak. The sealants should come down over the screws in the drip rail. The drip rail should be tight up against the home. If the snow will be up against the home in the winter, then you would need to check every fastener and siding joint on that side. You should also check the rim joist along that side, which you will be doing when you replace the floor.
It is very important to seal the water leak or all your work will get damaged again.
JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
JD, you bring up a GREAT point.... screws/nails in the drip gutter. I coated the roof very well but would best describe the drip rail job as just enough sealer to make it look the same color. I never gave it a thought that ice in the gutter could penetrate the gutter nails.
I have learned something already!
I have learned something already!
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