We want to install an ice maker fridge and it'd make a lot more sense to use my 1/2 drill to drill some holes through the frame the home sits on and run the pipe straight to the fridge instead of convoluted paths underneath and around and betwixt this that and the other. As this would be only a few hole to pass some 1/2" solid copper pipe through - would that damage or weaken any thing? These godzilla frame rails must be 12 - 14 inches wide....what do you think Mark - oh master of mobiles?
Mark-In-Rome
Can I Drill The Frame?
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
Just to mention you can run 1/4 inch soft copper to use as a fill line for your icemaker. That is how I have always installed them.In my home I ran the water line from the sink feed and under the cabinets. That way it stayed inside my mobile and it will not freeze. It is also a lot easier to drill the back edge of the cabinet at the bottom than get under the home.
hvac1000 ~ I guess I should have included information about the fridge being on the other side of the kitchen rather than being next to the cabinets / sink, so I have to go under the home. Indeed, if the fridge were next to the cabinets the GREAT spot for the copper line would be to run it inside the home. Thanks for the reply....
Hi love oldtrux,
Our ice making fridge is also on the opposite side. Hubby did as HVAC said, used 1/4 inch soft copper and we went under the home and back up to the fridge.It starts from the sink like HVAC said. He drilled the hole from inside and then stuck a wire down thru so he knew where to bring the pipe to.
Hope this makes sense and it was real easy to do! LOL, I am not a plumber though!
~Yanita~
Our ice making fridge is also on the opposite side. Hubby did as HVAC said, used 1/4 inch soft copper and we went under the home and back up to the fridge.It starts from the sink like HVAC said. He drilled the hole from inside and then stuck a wire down thru so he knew where to bring the pipe to.
Hope this makes sense and it was real easy to do! LOL, I am not a plumber though!
~Yanita~
Hi Mark In Rome,
I wouldn't drill into the frame at all! As the crow flies, may look like an easier route, but it's not always the case.
We plan on moving our fridge to the other half of the home, about 12 feet away. The soft copper will work from the kitchen sink. You don't need the 1/2 copper for an ice maker.
Mark may be MIA right now thawing folks out!
Get ready for the arctic blast folks! It's a doosey!!! Burrrrrrrrr!
Maureen
I wouldn't drill into the frame at all! As the crow flies, may look like an easier route, but it's not always the case.
We plan on moving our fridge to the other half of the home, about 12 feet away. The soft copper will work from the kitchen sink. You don't need the 1/2 copper for an ice maker.
Mark may be MIA right now thawing folks out!
Get ready for the arctic blast folks! It's a doosey!!! Burrrrrrrrr!
Maureen
If you live in a climate where there is any possibility of a water line freezing, then you should probably stay away from copper or any of the plastic lines that tend to burst when they freeze (cpvc, pb, etc.). It would also be better to run the line above the belly and insulation of the home so that the furnace ducting can protect it as it does with other water lines in the home.
Do to these reasons I would suggest running a 3/8 inch pex water line for the ice maker. A couple of small openings of the belly on each side of the home would be enough to fish the line through and iseally it would run next to or as close to a duct as possible.
If you rarely see freezing temps then you can run the 3/8 inch pex under the belly with just some pipe insulation around it and hangers to make the task easier.
Do to these reasons I would suggest running a 3/8 inch pex water line for the ice maker. A couple of small openings of the belly on each side of the home would be enough to fish the line through and iseally it would run next to or as close to a duct as possible.
If you rarely see freezing temps then you can run the 3/8 inch pex under the belly with just some pipe insulation around it and hangers to make the task easier.
Hi Robert,
The incoming line from the well is 1" pvc... since it comes in around the sink area, I was hoping I could T off from it and go straight over to the fridge and up through the floor behind it. It's about 15 feet from the sink. I guess I could use pex, but I like to solder if I could....
The incoming line from the well is 1" pvc... since it comes in around the sink area, I was hoping I could T off from it and go straight over to the fridge and up through the floor behind it. It's about 15 feet from the sink. I guess I could use pex, but I like to solder if I could....
Hi Mark,
There are several ways to do this, some better and easier than others.
However, since you're doing it, it needs to be what is best for you.
Copper freezes quicker and easier than anything, then pvc/cpvc and then pex.
If using copper, it should be at least ran through the belly area.
Here's where I was going, if you wish to consider this.
This how I do them: Depending on what is there, I use adapter fittings to get it down to 1/2". For yours, it would be a cpvc T, reducing down to 1/2". Then a cpvc to pex adapter fitting.
Then 1/2" pex down through floor and over through belly and up through floor. I also can often remain above floor and use cabinets and small square boxes (homemade) or conduit to run pex through, IF I can keep it behind something so it remains hidden.
The main objective is to try and keep it solid without joints if in the belly.
Once up through the floor, I crimp it to a 1/4 turn chrome coated shut off. A Tee adapter is connected to the shut-off. I cap off the 3/8" outlet at top and then connect a 1/4" flex, braided connector hose to side 1/4' outlet.
That hose then connects to water inlet valve.
Now, you can also use cpvc here. IF the fridge is within 10 ft. you can use a 10 ft. flex hose and forego the piping.
Depending on what's there and the set-up, I get it down to as few of joints as possible.
It may still end with more joints than old way with copper, but there is no soldering, if pex there is no glueing (odors), never had a leak and ALL joints are above floor to check regularly.
It holds better against freezing, is very flexible and easy, plus relatively quick.
Here's one more:
Get the waterline down to 1/2". Install a 1/2" to 3/8" 1/4 turn stop valve (straight). Connect the same TEE adapter mentioned earlier.
It is 3/8" X 3/8" X 1/4" . You connect it to top 3/8" outlet of stop valve.
You connect a flex hose faucet connector to top 3/8" outlet going up to faucet.
To the side 1/4" outlet, connect the flex hose (10 ft. if close enough)straight to water inlet.
However, you can connect a 1/4" soft copper line here instead, run through the belly, up through floor and straight to water inlet.
That's using copper without soldering and keeping in the belly to prevent freezing.
Just some food for thought.
These are quick, easy, very minimal chance if any of failure and require little mess, fuss or tools to do.
Take care and best wishes,
Robert
There are several ways to do this, some better and easier than others.
However, since you're doing it, it needs to be what is best for you.
Copper freezes quicker and easier than anything, then pvc/cpvc and then pex.
If using copper, it should be at least ran through the belly area.
Here's where I was going, if you wish to consider this.
This how I do them: Depending on what is there, I use adapter fittings to get it down to 1/2". For yours, it would be a cpvc T, reducing down to 1/2". Then a cpvc to pex adapter fitting.
Then 1/2" pex down through floor and over through belly and up through floor. I also can often remain above floor and use cabinets and small square boxes (homemade) or conduit to run pex through, IF I can keep it behind something so it remains hidden.
The main objective is to try and keep it solid without joints if in the belly.
Once up through the floor, I crimp it to a 1/4 turn chrome coated shut off. A Tee adapter is connected to the shut-off. I cap off the 3/8" outlet at top and then connect a 1/4" flex, braided connector hose to side 1/4' outlet.
That hose then connects to water inlet valve.
Now, you can also use cpvc here. IF the fridge is within 10 ft. you can use a 10 ft. flex hose and forego the piping.
Depending on what's there and the set-up, I get it down to as few of joints as possible.
It may still end with more joints than old way with copper, but there is no soldering, if pex there is no glueing (odors), never had a leak and ALL joints are above floor to check regularly.
It holds better against freezing, is very flexible and easy, plus relatively quick.
Here's one more:
Get the waterline down to 1/2". Install a 1/2" to 3/8" 1/4 turn stop valve (straight). Connect the same TEE adapter mentioned earlier.
It is 3/8" X 3/8" X 1/4" . You connect it to top 3/8" outlet of stop valve.
You connect a flex hose faucet connector to top 3/8" outlet going up to faucet.
To the side 1/4" outlet, connect the flex hose (10 ft. if close enough)straight to water inlet.
However, you can connect a 1/4" soft copper line here instead, run through the belly, up through floor and straight to water inlet.
That's using copper without soldering and keeping in the belly to prevent freezing.
Just some food for thought.
These are quick, easy, very minimal chance if any of failure and require little mess, fuss or tools to do.
Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Pex is definately best. However, with copper, it should be run through belly area to keep from being exposed to the elements as it freezes so easily.
On the Pex, if you can get rolled pex ran through the belly, it will not have any joints in there.
Straight sticks would have 90* ells to contend with.
Also hard to crimp without a large hole.
Take care and best wishes,
Robert
On the Pex, if you can get rolled pex ran through the belly, it will not have any joints in there.
Straight sticks would have 90* ells to contend with.
Also hard to crimp without a large hole.
Take care and best wishes,
Robert
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