Dryer Hook Ups

Guest · Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:15 pm

Anyone have any tips on hooking up a dryer in a single-wide mobile home? The washer & dryer just barely fit into the space provided side by side, but the dryer vent connection in particular is extremely tight. The exhaust hole from the dryer is almost directly across from the wall vent (but about an inch lower) and I'm having a difficult time trying to get a secure connection. It's just off-center enough that when I attach a short piece of expanded dryer hose between them and then push the unit into the wall, the collapsing vent hose doesn't want to flex and pulls one end or the other off. I'm using clamps on both ends, but the last time I tried the exhaust vent to the outside actually began to bend. There's not enough space behind the dryer to do much else. If I put any slack or bends in the dryer hose the dryer sticks out way too far into the hallway. Would I be better off using a couple of really short sections of solid and slightly angled ducting clamped in the middle instead? This is one of those problems you just don't get in a stick-built, since there's usually plenty of room to run dryer hose behind the dryer. I'm hoping someone else has had this problem in the past and can advise.

Yanita · Wed Oct 03, 2007 10:02 pm

Hi,

It's to my understanding that you should not use the flex hose.

Always try to use the aluminium duct, with as few bends as possible.

Yanita

troyster · Wed Oct 03, 2007 10:09 pm

LOL, sorry mobilewayne but been there myself. The problem started when our new washer and dryer didn't fit into the space provided for it. the washer & dryers of old were standard size, and the newer ones are heavy duty extra large capacity. we had to take out the wall that hides the hot water tank so we could fit it in. What we had to do with the dryer was replace the short dryer vent hose with a longer accordion style one so we could pull it out hook it up and slide it back to the wall. My wife Cheryl had to hold the vent hose up with a clothes hanger or was it a broom stick? while I slowly pushed the dryer to the wall. its still out about 5-6 inches but we learned to live with it.

hvac1000 · Thu Oct 04, 2007 2:05 am

Flex dryer duct is OK to use as long as it is labeled UL-151. This is a flame safety/ combustion rate that UL has designated as safe for use in residential homes of all types. This is not the white vinyl duct that has been used over the years. The white vinyl duct is not approved for any dryer connection type and has very limited use as a duct for bath fans as long as the white vinyl does not penetrate a floor or ceiling assembly.

Guest · Thu Oct 04, 2007 2:52 am

I'm using the thick metallic accordion-type hose, like Troyster describes, installed exactly like he describes, sans the coat hanger assist. I wouldn't think of using the old plastic type. In fact, I don't recall even seeing that type on sale at Home Depot yesterday when I purchased it, so I doubt they even sell it for dryers any longer because of the fire hazard. Because it's so thick, when it compresses it loses any flexing qualities and that 1" of offset stresses the connections and they won't hold. Right now I'm thinking maybe a short piece of solid round metal duct with the ends cut at an angle to provide for the offset. Only problem with that is once the dryer is pushed into the wall, there's no way I can clamp the dryer end so it will have to be a perfect fit. If that doesn't work I guess it's time to get out the sawzall and re-do the wall vent so it's in a straight line from the dryer exhaust. Boy, being a mobile home owner can sure be a PITA at times!

Yanita · Thu Oct 04, 2007 7:30 am

Hi,

Thanks for the clarification folks. Time and time again I still see where people are using the white flex hoses, not the heavy duty aluminium ones.

Sometimes, even though I know the original poster knows what materials to use it is a good thing to post what not to use. Remember alot of folks just read our site and use the info they find.

Now, to your dryer issue....when we owned our singlewide we had to redo the dryer vent and washer water lines. The units were in the hallway. The washer went in first, into the corner, the dryer next to it. There was no way to hook up the dryer vent without having kinks so tight that it would not allow for proper venting.

Also folks, please remember that your dryer needs to be vented to the outside of your home, not underneath it.

Have a great day,

Yanita

Ketta · Thu Oct 04, 2007 11:29 am

Ours was 'redone' or 'rerouted' before we bought it. Instead of being directed to a spot on the base of the wall to a duct out the side of the house, the previous owner put a hole in the floor. We're still not sure why, other than it's been easier to get under the house to firmly attach the duct from the dryer to the hole (which is fitted with the proper sized duct fitting) for a good fit.

We keep an eye on it, though. I don't like it because it simply vents the heat and moisture under the house and doesn't direct it outward as it should be. It bothers me, but maybe the previous owner did that to avoid moisture in the walls (the hookups are right next to the HW heater). Or perhaps they had the same issues you do.

I know my comments likely didn't help, but I thought I'd add to the thread anyway. Sometimes these MH's are weird and cause people to do weird things. It's when weird goes on to 'unsafe' that makes me scratch my head.

Guest · Thu Oct 04, 2007 2:03 pm

Well, Ketta, if the floor vent is close enough to the edge of the house I suppose you could easily add another piece of metal flex duct and exhaust it through a skirting panel to the outside. I don't think I'd be comfortable exhausting all of that moisture into the crawlspace under the home either. Sort of defeats the whole purpose of having adequate ventilation under the home.

Yanita · Thu Oct 04, 2007 4:03 pm

Your right Mobile Wayne,

It also is allowing all the lint that gets thru to build up under the home and become a fire hazard. The moisture will cause rusting of the frame, and will/can be wicked up into the underbelly eventually causing premature damage to insulation and flooring.

It will probably cost less than 20.00 to run another piece of duct and the vent hood to the outside of the skirting.

Yanita

Ketta · Thu Oct 04, 2007 4:36 pm

We check and clean the area often, and right now the opening is near a piece of skirting that remains open (there's an outdoor faucet right there, and a sediment filter, so it's an area we use enough to keep the skirting open/loose).

It's on our list to fix, I promise...we even have the supplies. ><