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Thought we would put out our plans for a HYdronic Radiant Floor system and maybe get some other ideas that could help us & others here that want to try this.
My husband did alot of reading on how this system works and what had to be done.

We tore up our subfloor (particleboard) and will replaced with 23/32 OSB.
Oxygen barrier pex tubing 1/2 id-5/8 od gets laid out spaced 8" apart and 2" from exterior walls.
The spaces between the tubing will be filled with 5/8 flooring pieces.
7/32-4x8 underlayment goes on top (approved for laying of carpetting,hardwood,vinyl and is moisture resistant.)
Tubing will make its way back to our water/utility room to a manifold.
Boiler will be used
System is really the same as you would use in a stick built.
An idea husband has is to use a hot water heater as a holding tank that will keep it hot as needed.
It will not have to work so hard to keep water up to temp for continuous flow.
Not too sure about that idea??

So what do you think??

Judy & Jim

The only issue I can see is a possible problem keeping pipes warm. Factory plumbing is run near the heat ducts to keep them from freezing. since you would not use the ducts How will you keep the pipes warm?

Greg

the radiant floor tubing will be on top of the subfloor.

we are adding more insulation under the floor.

I have looked into PEx radiant heat floors before but have never installed one. But I would think the hot PEx pipes would keep the house plumbing from freezing. It would be easy enough to run radiant heat pipe next to the supply plumbing if needed. Yeah, then there is drain plumbing. Maybe a run next to these pipes too? I really don't know since I am not in an area with freeze issues and have never installed radiant heat systems.

I am very interested in how this project turns out. Please keep us posted.

It certainly will be a challenge. Will keep you posted.

As for the plumbing bringing water to our sinks and toilets, we have reconfigured the rooms so all plumbing needs are on one side. The water will come into this water room and into an on demand hot water heater ,up through the wall to a bulk head or area above door header that leads across to other side to first bath then over head down to other end of trailer to kitchen & half bath. I believe this will all be covered by cove molding.Husband has hasnt clued me in on everything yet...

I think the only thing he hasnt a complete idea on yet as to the position of the water filter we have gotten. We have a well and have always have found having a filter on your water helps alot.
It only needs to filter our kitchen and bath water and not our heating water so adding to the water as soon as it comes in is not an option.

Any ideas on that would be great.

Thanks

I understand your filter needs but my question is why not filter all the water? The benefits of -filtered water and the boiler - will far outweigh the negatives IMO. Less deposits on the heat exchanger the better transfer rate thus less fuel used... Not to mention the pump blades/balance, etc... So id vote for the filter at the main. this is a cool project for sure..

Anything that can effect the pressure on a boiler will cause problems. Some might be okay with 12psi but some will require at least 16psi. This is a really complicated system that needs fine tuning to make it work right. It sounds like you have a decent game plan but a major part comes down to the unit that will provide this type of heat it self. I have done radiant heat in many basements before that are okay with 250ft max loops but depending on what setup you are using that can vary a lot. Follow whatever your equipment manufacture advises for the best results.

Boilers can operate at different pressures/flow rates as based on design. The boiler's fill valve, if working correctly, will be fine with a filter. .. So a filter is important for exchanger and etc. lifespan on a well IMO. I would recommend watching filter condition and replacing as necessary..