Total Remodel - Intro & Project 1: Master Bath
Posted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 7:43 am
Hi guys and gals .. I've already posted a few questions here and really appreciate everyone's knowledge and help. My girlfriend Tiffany and I live in central FL, and are about to begin a total remodel of a 1982 Fleetwood double wide and then move into it. We really don't have a timeframe for completion .. basically we're going to do what we can with the money we have. I plan to post our progress as we go from project to project, documenting what we did and what issues we faced. I'll also be posting approximate costs.
Here we are on 2 acres, 1 of which is protected wilderness or something. All the other MH's in the area are well taken care of, and the people across the road from us have horses and goats.
The place was in really bad shape when we got it. Filthy, lots of mouse turds, and had a horrible dog/urine smell. We immediately removed all the carpets and furniture which helped a bit with the smell but more needs to be done. The floors are surprisingly in good shape, except for a few spots along the outside walls and in the bathroom. I plan to replace those sections, then prime the entire floor with Kilz Original (oil-based) primer to seal & block any remaining dog smell. Every bit of existing drywall will be coming down and replaced with new.
So onto our first major project - the master bathroom. The room is 11x5 with a 2x2 notch in the outside corner where the hot water heater is. The existing toilet and sink will be replaced, and the giant 5x4 tub will be replaced with a 4x3 shower pan and tiled walls. In the extra 1' of space between the shower and outside wall, I'm going to build a custom slide-out cabinet to store all of our (read: her) bathroom stuff. The sink/vanity combo will be replaced with a sleek pedestal sink, and the new toilet has a special button for flushing #2's. Here's a quick rundown of our plan:
Giant tub being replaced with a custom shower.
1 - Remove the toilet/sink/tub
2 - Replace the entire subfloor with 3/4" plywood. There's a heating duct in the floor, so I'm not sure how it's secured to the subfloor underneath. I plan to cut around it enough where I can pop my head down there and take a look. I'm guessing the duct is just screwed into the subfloor?
3 - Put the shower pan in place and figure out where the drain needs to be moved to. Then move the drain. I've never done plumbing before, and will know more once I see what's under the tub.
4 - get rid of the tub filler and diverter, and raise the shower head up a bit
5 - frame out a 3' wall that will sit between the shower and back wall. Build the frame for the custom cabinet in the remaining 1' of space. Can I attach whatever cabinet material I'm going to use directly to the 2x3 studs on the outside wall? Should I put some sort of vapor barrier first?
6 - replace the existing drywall with new 1/2" drywall, and replace the existing insulation with new stuff. A 15" x 48" roll at HD is only $10, so no reason not to do it.
6 - install the shower pan and hook up the repositioned drain
7 - Install 1/2" cement board around the shower, going up 6'. The 2 feet between the cement board and the ceiling will be 1/2" drywall. The ceiling is 8.5" and the shower pan is around 6" high.
8 - Redgard the cement board and new plywood floor
9 - Tile the shower. I won't be using premixed thinset since it doesn't work well over Redgard. The corners where the back wall meets the side walls will be caulked instead of grouted.
10 - Paint the drywall
11 - Lay down sheet vinyl for the floor. Found some decent stuff at HD and a 5 x 8-ish piece will run about $40. Glue isn't needed, but I may use double sided tape around the edges per the manufacturer's suggestion.
12 - install the new sink & toilet
13 - reconfigure one of the interior walls so we can install a pocket door between the master bath and master bedroom. The existing door swings inward, and pretty much hits the toilet when opened all the way. We wanted to get a new door anyway. A pocket door kit is about $60 and HD, and a door is around $50.
I'll update this post with pics as I take them. I look forward to any comments or concerns you may have! I also have a few questions:
- How hard is it to move a tub drain? It only has to move about 6" closer to the center of the room, and maybe 6" to a 1' closer to the water supply pipes.
- For the custom cabinet that sits between the outside wall and new inside wall, can I attach the cabinet directly to the outside wall's 2x3 studs? Any type of barrier between the wood and studs?
- How are floor ducts connected to the subfloor underneath the home? Is it just a matter of unscrewing it from the existing floor, cutting a hole in the new floor, and reattaching the duct?
Here we are on 2 acres, 1 of which is protected wilderness or something. All the other MH's in the area are well taken care of, and the people across the road from us have horses and goats.
The place was in really bad shape when we got it. Filthy, lots of mouse turds, and had a horrible dog/urine smell. We immediately removed all the carpets and furniture which helped a bit with the smell but more needs to be done. The floors are surprisingly in good shape, except for a few spots along the outside walls and in the bathroom. I plan to replace those sections, then prime the entire floor with Kilz Original (oil-based) primer to seal & block any remaining dog smell. Every bit of existing drywall will be coming down and replaced with new.
So onto our first major project - the master bathroom. The room is 11x5 with a 2x2 notch in the outside corner where the hot water heater is. The existing toilet and sink will be replaced, and the giant 5x4 tub will be replaced with a 4x3 shower pan and tiled walls. In the extra 1' of space between the shower and outside wall, I'm going to build a custom slide-out cabinet to store all of our (read: her) bathroom stuff. The sink/vanity combo will be replaced with a sleek pedestal sink, and the new toilet has a special button for flushing #2's. Here's a quick rundown of our plan:
Giant tub being replaced with a custom shower.
1 - Remove the toilet/sink/tub
2 - Replace the entire subfloor with 3/4" plywood. There's a heating duct in the floor, so I'm not sure how it's secured to the subfloor underneath. I plan to cut around it enough where I can pop my head down there and take a look. I'm guessing the duct is just screwed into the subfloor?
3 - Put the shower pan in place and figure out where the drain needs to be moved to. Then move the drain. I've never done plumbing before, and will know more once I see what's under the tub.
4 - get rid of the tub filler and diverter, and raise the shower head up a bit
5 - frame out a 3' wall that will sit between the shower and back wall. Build the frame for the custom cabinet in the remaining 1' of space. Can I attach whatever cabinet material I'm going to use directly to the 2x3 studs on the outside wall? Should I put some sort of vapor barrier first?
6 - replace the existing drywall with new 1/2" drywall, and replace the existing insulation with new stuff. A 15" x 48" roll at HD is only $10, so no reason not to do it.
6 - install the shower pan and hook up the repositioned drain
7 - Install 1/2" cement board around the shower, going up 6'. The 2 feet between the cement board and the ceiling will be 1/2" drywall. The ceiling is 8.5" and the shower pan is around 6" high.
8 - Redgard the cement board and new plywood floor
9 - Tile the shower. I won't be using premixed thinset since it doesn't work well over Redgard. The corners where the back wall meets the side walls will be caulked instead of grouted.
10 - Paint the drywall
11 - Lay down sheet vinyl for the floor. Found some decent stuff at HD and a 5 x 8-ish piece will run about $40. Glue isn't needed, but I may use double sided tape around the edges per the manufacturer's suggestion.
12 - install the new sink & toilet
13 - reconfigure one of the interior walls so we can install a pocket door between the master bath and master bedroom. The existing door swings inward, and pretty much hits the toilet when opened all the way. We wanted to get a new door anyway. A pocket door kit is about $60 and HD, and a door is around $50.
I'll update this post with pics as I take them. I look forward to any comments or concerns you may have! I also have a few questions:
- How hard is it to move a tub drain? It only has to move about 6" closer to the center of the room, and maybe 6" to a 1' closer to the water supply pipes.
- For the custom cabinet that sits between the outside wall and new inside wall, can I attach the cabinet directly to the outside wall's 2x3 studs? Any type of barrier between the wood and studs?
- How are floor ducts connected to the subfloor underneath the home? Is it just a matter of unscrewing it from the existing floor, cutting a hole in the new floor, and reattaching the duct?