Toilets

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
For mobile home parts, click here.

Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD

Locked
StanD
Posts: 42
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2011 2:15 pm

Are toilets in mobile homes different from stick homes? I am assuming no but thought I'd ask.

Our toilet rocks on the closet flange. I believe the flange may be too high but it's also possible that a different toilet was installed before we bought the mh. Will a different toilet solve this (want to avoid shims and the gap they make) or am I going to have to lower the flange? I ask about a different toilet because I am thinking of replacing the standard toilet with an ADA compliant toilet.

Thanks.
User avatar
Greg
Moderator
Posts: 5696
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

Most any toilet will bolt up. BUT,measure everything first to make sure you will have the room. Sometimes they put the flange too close to a wall to fit properly.

Check the subfloor, it is possible that it is soft in that area and will need to be patched. Not a big job, but it can take a little time.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
StanD
Posts: 42
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2011 2:15 pm

Thanks, I'll check the subfloor.
ponch37300
Posts: 622
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:12 pm
Location: wisconsin

Have to figure out why it's rocking before knowing how to fix it right. As mentioned it could be a rotten floor. The subfloor supports the flange so if it rots it can create problems. Have to pull toilet and cut out bad spots and put new wood and re attach the flange and then bolt the toilet back down. This would be the "worst case" scenario.

It could be as simple as the bolts are loose and allowing the toilet to move back and forth. If this is the case I would get a new wax ring before tightening them. Or a problem with the flange.

If you are planning on replacing the toilet now would be a good time and you can pull the old and see what you have and fix it before installing the new toilet.

Shims don't create a gap, the "fill" an existing gap in order to prevent rocking. Also you can caulk this gap to hide it. I like to leave the back of the toilet without caulk so if there was to be a leak it will show back then instead of being completely caulked in.

Pulling a toilet is pretty easy and cheap to do so you can figure out what the problem is. Wax rings are cheap and I always replace the bolts when I pull a toilet. Bolts are cheap and make re installing the toilet easy instead of fighting old cut bolts. Also get the easy break bolts so you don't have to cut them, you will thank me if you've ever had to cut bolts down before. Have some throw away towels around to soak up the water in the toilet before you pull it so you don't make a mess. Also a putty knife to scrap the old wax off the flange and toilet, this is a messy job so some rubber gloves can be handy.

If you're getting a new toilet spend a few bucks extra and get a decent one. Doesn't have to be the top of the line ones that cost close to a grand but stay away from the cheapo bottom dollar ones. An extra 50-100 bucks can really get you a lot nicer toilet then the bottom dollar ones.

Ask away any more questions you may have or run into!
Steve-WA
Posts: 180
Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:04 am
Location: Western Washington, Puget Sound

Toilet tips: always use a shop Vac. Suck the tank and bowl dry, probably won't need towels.

Buy an extra pair of (3/8"?) nuts: insert eared bolts in flange slots, then nut the bolts tight to the flange before installing toilet. This will keep the ears from slipping and keeps the bolts rigid and upright.

Lowes now carries toilet supply water lines that have a plastic nut at each end - no more crescent wrenches. Luv it.
Locked
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post