Water Heater drain in wrong place

[Mark440]

I've had a couple issues with my water heater...and being I've been here 10+ years, I'm sure it's about time to replace it. My problem isn't putting a new one in - it's getting the old one out.

The knucklehead who set this unit (same knucklehead who used drywall screws to build a massive deck cuz 'they were cheaper') turned the unit to "match" the existing plumbing. Of course the closet it's in is very small....so the end result is the drain valve is about 3/4" off a wall and behind the cold in/hot out water lines where they come up through the floor.

I'm not all excited about cutting the lines off at the floor - and even then maybe still not able to get a hose onto the drain valve. Is there any other way to 'drain' the tank....even down to a point that I could somehow turn it a few inches to get a hose on the drain valve?

Several years back I ran an outside water line about 200 ft down the hill to a garden area. All told, it's about 6 feet lower than all other water lines. If the water is shut off at the main...and I open the garden faucet, would spigots then opened in the house start a siphoning effect and maybe drain out some of the tank?

And, if all that fails - do I just cut a hole in the floor near the drain valve and try to funnel the water out the hole??

[Greg]

the siphon would work, but you may be able to wrestle the tank around after you have it disconnected and drain it.

Greg

[Steve-WA]

Secure power, secure cold inlet, secure hot outlet (not usually a shutoff here, but shut it if there is), open hot and cold faucets inside house to depressurize the lines. NOW, why couldn't you disconnect the water lines at the tank top /side? Then spin that sucker around and get a hose on the drain.

If it won't drain (obviously it never has been) hook a washer supply hose to a spigot, then a garden hose to that, then to tank drain and backflush through the sediment. Just a jolt, then drain normally.

Good luck!