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My dryer vent is a foil vent and I want to replace it with a solid metal vent. The dryer vent hole is about 13' from the outside wall. It currently goes down a bit through the floor then an elbow and straight out. I bought the straight metal vents and elbows, but I also saw that they sold a semi rigid flexible metal vent. It looked like it would be easier to install onto the dryer, then down the hole and attach to a solid vent. The flexible vent was only 6 or 8 feet. On the package it had some qualification that sounded like it couldn't (or shouldn't) be attached to anything but the dryer and then to the outside. Does anyone know what I 'm talking about and would that be acceptable for me to do? I wish I had the exact wording on the flexible vent package as I might be misinterpreting it.
Thanks for any guidance and help.
Nancy B

Actually I would still use the ridged pipe with that much length. In some area's code frowns on even the semi-ridged aluminum stuff. If you can get the flex stuff thru you should be able to get the ridged in. Run the long pieces from the outside thru the hole and then connect to the the elbow going up to the dryer. Also remember to use aluminum tape to hold your pipes together, if you use screws they will catch dust and create a fire hazard.

I guess this is what you are talking about?


Ron

Yes,that picture is what I'm talking about. But now I'm confused...ridged pipe? or do you mean rigid? the pipe I bought has no ridges...it's smooth. I was sold screws that are short, but I wondered if they wouldn't catch lint..thanks for the heads up there. The salesman told me to use tape too and ignored my question about the screws catching lint. The pipe I bought has to be fitted together along the length..one side fits in a fold kind of thing. does this sounds right? thanks for your help Ron.

Sorry for the confusion, what I meant by ridged was that it is solid metal. Regular duct work pipe like this.


Also if you use the solid pipe and have a little problem with the 90 degree elbow you spin parts of the elbow to change the way it bends if it does not line up just right.

I hope this is not confusing you more. Just trying to help you out.

Ron

thanks for the help Ron. You answered my questions and now I know I can do this!Thanks again.

I use the rigid ducting as shown, tape all joints and seams with aluminum tape. Support with plumbers tape or tie wraps

My venting used to go from the dryer to an external wall thru the 'channel' created by the floor joists. That said, the rocket scientist who set this place but the AC compressor right in front of the dryer vent exhaust. So, I had to choose to either re-route the vent or move the compressor.

Of course, it was several hundred dollars cheaper to re-route the dryer vent. So, I went straight down with rigid duct about 16" and then angled over about 5 feet to the nearest external skirting - maintaining a slight downward slope. I mounted the exhaust vent in the skirting, and used a couple pieces of strapping to relieve the weight on the skirting. It's held up just fine for several years now.

I did have to pierce a hole through the belly material. I cut an "X" pattern so that I would have the flaps of the X for taping. My 'peace of mind' comes from knowing if it ever needs to be cleaned out or replaced, all of it is fully accessible within the crawl space.

Nancy,

I know exactly what you are talking about. My dryer used to vent under the trailer, that is just how is what set up when I moved in here.
My plumber actually brought it to my attention when he was under there putting heat tape on my outdoor faucet. He said you do not want that vented under the trailer like that. He went to Lowes and got the rigid pipe and ran it from the middle underneath the trailer about 10 or 12 ft cut a hole in the skirting and installed a new vent so that it now vents to the outside.