mobilehomerepair.com

I have some of the belly board missing also.
My home is about 30 years old.
It has that Buffalo board.
One place where it is missing is around the bottom of
the sink area. Some of the pex piping goes down just a little
below the buffalo board. I guess I could force it back up
a little. I put some pipe insulation over the pipes and was
going to stick a batt of insulation over the hole.
I was going to hold the insulation in place with
the type of material that you put down to keep the weeds
from growing. I figure that breathes.
I was just goin to staple the material to the buffalo board
and hope that it holds.

Hi MP183,

I split your post from the other thread. It is always better to post a new question even when it may be similar to another. This way we can assure that each poster gets the proper info without confusion.

Thanks,

Yanita

Hi mp183,

Repairing belly board is much different that repairing belly material. They are two very different products! I have the belly board and it's very difficult to get a good, decent repair.

I would not use the landscaping material, yes it breathes, but it's not really as sturdy as other products available. I would use the belly material made for our homes. Might cost a bit more, but I only want those down under repairs done once and done right!

If I remember correctly, JD has a pretty easy fix for this. I just can't remember the details right now! I'm sure he'll be by soon!

Maureen

Hi,

I think I would forgo the staple thing. I doubt that they would hold for very long. I have never tried that though.

At Home Depot in my area, they have a product called Sound Board. it is the same dense cardboard board material as buffalo board. It is asplalt impregnated (black) on one side. You should be able to see the floor joists up inside of this hole. If not, cut it out to where the cut runs down the middle of the floor joist, this will allow you to fasten both the remaining buffalo board and the new Sound Board to the floor joist. On your cuts going perpendicular to the joists, you can cut 2x4s that can be toenailed into the floor joists to seal that end up. Again, you want to position the 2x4 (flat) half way between the old remaining buffalo board and the new sound board. I have also seen the buffalo board suspended (not attached) to the floor joists, in which case you can fur out with 1x4s or 2x4s if needed to get to the right distance to the underbelly.

We use pneumatic roofing staples to fasten the sound and buffalo board to the joists and or new framing. This gives us a good seal. Without this tool, you could try some sheetrock screws with washers and then maybe wood or aluminum track of some sort over the cuts.

I have also made repairs in the buffalo board using the standard polyethylene belly wrap like Mark sells from this web site. (see books and parts link above). When I use this material, I will roll 2" wood slats up 3-4 wraps on the belly wrap and attach it to the floor joists with the staple gun. I will also have a pretty good overlap and spray both the belly wrap and the buffalo board with 3M Super Spray Adhesive. You ler the stuff tack up a little bit before pushing the pieces together.

Hope this helps.

JD

JD's doubts are well founded. I can attest that the usual non-pneumatic staple gun staples do not hold in this material very well at all. Eventually, with changes in humidity and vibration, the staples will work their way out and you will have to re-do the repair.

Thanks for the great info.
Internet is an amazing thing.
There is always someone out there that knows.
Thanks Yanita for splitting the thread.
Subject would have gotten lost in the old thread.

Your welcome,

This is why we ask for seperate threads!

Hope we can continue to help you in the future.

Yanita