Replacing Facia & Drip Rail
Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 10:14 am
Here is the info you requested. I put it in the forum hoping to be able to insert that drawing.
Hi Tim,
I have heard that metal piece called a J-channel and most times a drip rail. That link I sent to where they sell the stuff, mobilehomedepot.com has a couple of syles of drip rail and a J-rail. I would not use their J-rail. It looks more like the termination bar RVs use where they will use a plastic insert to cover screws. I am also not to crazy about the bigger gutter styles of drip rail. The one you have is best.
Remove the screws from the existing drip rail, you may have to scrape away some sealant to do this. Use a flat bar to lift the edge of the roof off of that damaged fascia. You can replace the fascia with hardboard siding cut into 8" strips but I would recommend using Choice Dek Fascia board, if you wanted to put it back like it is. The CD fascia board is 1/2" x 9.25" x 12' . In my post I said I didn't like the design of screwing the drip rail to the fascia board, because the soft materials and expansion and contraction causes the screws to come loose.
By using a custom trim to go from the drip rail to the fascia board (or to replace the fascia board all together), you get a much better connection at the drip rail. The screws go through the drip rail, butyl putty tape, roof metal, butyl putty tape and then into the framing behind the siding. The custom trim part should actuall be just tucked in just below the screws in the drip rail, and not all the way up in there.
When I get another job like this, I will take pictures. They don't come up that often. I hope this helps.
JD
Hi Tim,
I have heard that metal piece called a J-channel and most times a drip rail. That link I sent to where they sell the stuff, mobilehomedepot.com has a couple of syles of drip rail and a J-rail. I would not use their J-rail. It looks more like the termination bar RVs use where they will use a plastic insert to cover screws. I am also not to crazy about the bigger gutter styles of drip rail. The one you have is best.
Remove the screws from the existing drip rail, you may have to scrape away some sealant to do this. Use a flat bar to lift the edge of the roof off of that damaged fascia. You can replace the fascia with hardboard siding cut into 8" strips but I would recommend using Choice Dek Fascia board, if you wanted to put it back like it is. The CD fascia board is 1/2" x 9.25" x 12' . In my post I said I didn't like the design of screwing the drip rail to the fascia board, because the soft materials and expansion and contraction causes the screws to come loose.
By using a custom trim to go from the drip rail to the fascia board (or to replace the fascia board all together), you get a much better connection at the drip rail. The screws go through the drip rail, butyl putty tape, roof metal, butyl putty tape and then into the framing behind the siding. The custom trim part should actuall be just tucked in just below the screws in the drip rail, and not all the way up in there.
When I get another job like this, I will take pictures. They don't come up that often. I hope this helps.
JD