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I would like your opinion on the sheet rocking we plan to do in the entire home. Right now we have 1/4" vop. Is it alright to sheet rock directly on top of the paneling? And is it alright to hang regular thickness or do I have to go thinner due to the weight of the sheet rock?

Since I am not sure what type of home you have or the foundation type I am hesitant to give an answer. I will say that weight may be an issue and a few things to think about. I would also check to make sure the home is level before starting the job. Do you plan on moving the home again? If so plan on doing wall repair after the home is moved. Greg

Hi,

Personally I would not hang rock over paneling...one, if you get a leak it might/could/would stay behind the paneling and take even longer for you to discover the damage. Another would be possible condensation. Third, that quarter inch difference by not removing the paneling could be all the difference when trying to get the electrical boxes pulled out or trimming around doors/windows.

Yanita

We are on post and pier (sp) foundation. Our home is a 2000 Champion it is 24x58. We do not plan to ever really move it. Unless the kids want to get rid of it. I just cannot handle the batton strips and the sound issues we have with such thin walls anymore. I want it took look more like a home. I think the strips scream Mobile Home. Not that it is a bad thing, but I would like them gone. So I figured I would do it the right way and just hang sheetrock. So if I don't put it up over the paneling, am I ok with the regular thickness of sheetrock or no? Thanks for your advise!

Rhonda,

are you sheetrocking just to change the appearance of the walls? some folks on another website I visit put texture paint over paneling.

the texture paint in general is easy to work with. there are different grades of the paint the give slightly different appearances. I would avoid the one that gives the highest peaks for the walls unless you are going to roll it and then go back over it with a scrapper to knock the highest peaks off, they are like little hooks if you bump against them, ouch!

you could make a test panel up on a piece of scrap paneling or plywood, and see if you like the look.

Brenda

Brenda,
Not only do I want to change the appearance of the walls, but I would like it to be more sound proof. I am thinking the sheetrock may help with that. I have heard about people texturing over the paneling, but I don't know the process and I am afraid with three children that it may chip or peel off. At least that is what I have read can happen cause it doesn't adhear to the vinyl well.

If you take down the paneling then put up drywall you should put 3-1/2" insulation in the walls to prevent sound from penetrating. On interior walls use the kind without paper backing. On exterior walls use with paper backing and have the paper facing to the inside.

Ron

Rhonda....hmmmmm..now don't take this post as "raining on your parade" but I'd like to mention a few things. First and foremost if you want to use sheet-rock/drywall..strip off all the old paneling first. Laying a better grade of wall material over top of a poor grade of wall material is a mistake. Next item...M'am..there's a reason they used paneling with those ugly trim-strips at the joints. These homes expand and contract from summer to winter and every season in between. That's why they used the trim strips between the paneling..to allow for the expansion and contraction. Drywall/sheetrock won't expand and contract..and it will crack. At every joint. Read that again. At every single joint..it will crack...eventually. Usually within' 1 year. You can glue it and screw it until yer blue-in-the-face and finish it up smooth as glass...and it will crack. In the corners and wall-to-ceiling joints you can use paintable caulking and it works puddy good. But the paint won't expand and contract..and ye'll still get some minor cracking. Where the drywall sheets butt up to each other..and the long (8ft.) tape-joint...yer gonn'a get big cracks! They'll open and close due to humidity and heaving of the ground. You can level the home and set it on a solid concrete foundation..and it'll still crack the mud-joints. Yup..it's a big improvement on sound-proofing..more energy efficient and it looks "more like a real home". But life is a trade off...eh? JMHO of course. Audie..the Oldfart...complete rebuild with drywall of an old 1970 12x70 s.w....

Hi,

Audie is correct, and if your home moves around even the textured wall paints and wall treatments that I have done to my home will crack. Thankfully, as I have done my texture in a venetian plaster manner the cracks enhance the ole world appearance.

But, as Audie says there is a trade off. The walls that I choose to accent in this manner I have had to repaint over the crack and reapply some stain that goes over the top of the paint. Thankfully I have not gotten any new cracks.

Yanita

PS, I am going to move this to the Decorating forums as the thread is headed that way.

I appreciate all of your input on this subject. But I really want to get rid of the strips. This is really the only way I know how. I know that my home shifts cause every winter the battons in the living room and my bedroom bow out. I kinda feel like I am "stuck" with them.

Well, try doing one wall and see what happens. Greg

Thank you everyone ! I think I am going to try what Greg said. Do one wall and see where it leads me. I appreciate your advice!