ceiling repair/ swamp cooler
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
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- Posts: 17
- Joined: Sun Feb 01, 2009 11:30 pm
- Location: Albq, NM
I needed to rebuild the swamp cooler down draft opening. Removed the old "tin" added plywood and sheet metal, sealed and added a piece of 3/8" sheetrock. Not the prettiest ceiling repair but better than before.
Hi
Nice work.
Living in Florida we do not have weather that works with a swamp coolers. How well do they work in NM? How many degrees will they bring down the temp?
Thank you
Harry
Nice work.
Living in Florida we do not have weather that works with a swamp coolers. How well do they work in NM? How many degrees will they bring down the temp?
Thank you
Harry
Aside from the roof leak, soft floors, rats, mice and bursted plumbing ........ how do you like it?
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- Posts: 17
- Joined: Sun Feb 01, 2009 11:30 pm
- Location: Albq, NM
This is my first experience with a swamp cooler, but minus the new homes built the rest are this type of A/C in New Mexico.
We have 20% or less humidity. I'm told you need to have windows open to aid in the cooling process though. I still need to rewire the conections to the motor and pump, then add an digital thermostat.
We have 20% or less humidity. I'm told you need to have windows open to aid in the cooling process though. I still need to rewire the conections to the motor and pump, then add an digital thermostat.
Hello,
We have a swamp cooler as we live in a low humidity area also.
Just crack-about 2 "-not completely open-two windows in your home-best at opposite ends of the house. We have found this allows for the best operation. If you have too many windows open or have windows open too wide-it won't cool too well.
Hope this helps
We have a swamp cooler as we live in a low humidity area also.
Just crack-about 2 "-not completely open-two windows in your home-best at opposite ends of the house. We have found this allows for the best operation. If you have too many windows open or have windows open too wide-it won't cool too well.
Hope this helps
Just putting in my 2 cents.I have researched swamp coolers and we use to use them in animal barns right here in Minnesota and they work well as long as you keep air going out.Like a couple of people said in dryer climates but not well in humid and hot.
However I found that there is newer design which is called two stage swamp coolers which run air through cooling coil to drop air temp some before second stage and it sounds like they work better in higher humidity places than single stage cause they put less moister in air.
Big catch they are little more costly than single stage ones, but cost savings over running air conditioner should pay in long run.
However I found that there is newer design which is called two stage swamp coolers which run air through cooling coil to drop air temp some before second stage and it sounds like they work better in higher humidity places than single stage cause they put less moister in air.
Big catch they are little more costly than single stage ones, but cost savings over running air conditioner should pay in long run.
Annie is exactly right about opening two windows just a couple of inches. A 4800 to 6400 cfm evaporative cooler needs air to displace and vent moisture.
Here in Fresno, we have very low humidity in the summer. The evaporation process can lower inside temps 10-15 degrees. There are also newer designed units that claim to cool the home even more. If you are not able to get that performance (in low humidity) then you need to look at cfms or airflow.
I have found that after about 95 degrees or so, the coolers kind of break even on the comfort. If your inside temps are lowered 10-15 degrees but adding a lot of humidity to the home, that puts you in 80-85 degree humid weather.
What a lot of people do in my area is use the cooler early in the day to get maximum cooling in the home, then close up curtains that can block direct sun. This allows them to use their AC less and lower cooling costs. We get many 100+ degree days here in the valley.
JD
Here in Fresno, we have very low humidity in the summer. The evaporation process can lower inside temps 10-15 degrees. There are also newer designed units that claim to cool the home even more. If you are not able to get that performance (in low humidity) then you need to look at cfms or airflow.
I have found that after about 95 degrees or so, the coolers kind of break even on the comfort. If your inside temps are lowered 10-15 degrees but adding a lot of humidity to the home, that puts you in 80-85 degree humid weather.
What a lot of people do in my area is use the cooler early in the day to get maximum cooling in the home, then close up curtains that can block direct sun. This allows them to use their AC less and lower cooling costs. We get many 100+ degree days here in the valley.
JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
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