Hunter non programmable thermostat problem

[homebuff]

Hey Robert or Mark! Thought i'd drop by & ask about my Hunter non programmable thermostat concern.

Temperatures around her have cooled down a bit but back when it was really hot during the day my thermostat started acting a little strange.

When I would set it to around 70-74 (anywhere in that range below 76 degrees) it would reset itself to 76 degrees automatically.

I tried resetting the thermostat by pressing the reset button & even replaced the the two AA batteries.

Now that its cooled down some its doing ok but our electric bill went sky high.

Could a thermostat not funtioning properly cause my bill to be high?

Do you recommend replacing the thermostat to be sure?

I also need to know what cycle time should be set. 1-2-or 3. Tried all 3 settings to see if it had any affect on my concern.

Thanks for any support. Have a great day & upcoming weekend.
David

Oh! the unit cools the house real good but it cycles on off too much.

[Robert]

Hi David,


Yes, a poorly functioning t-stat can cause increase in electric bill. Not sure how extra high yours was or whether that is sole cause of it.


Cycle setting depends on unit and home, try each and monitor to see which works best for your situation.


Hunter makes a great ceiling fan, I will leave it at that.


Honeywell makes a great t-stat, as does White-Rodgers.


Take care and best wishes,
Robert

[homebuff]

Hey Robert & all the staff.
Back again & it's getting that time of the year again & very cold here in Oklahoma.
My thermostat or Interthem gas furnace unit is on the fritz again.
Doing the on off thing. I havn't replaced the Hunter Nonprogrammable thermostat cause I don't know if it my problem or not & they are not that cheap to just replace & may not be my problem.
I can set it at any temp above 70 & it will fire up the burner & kick on the fan but it will start cycling on & off while its still heating the house & it does it's job at heating the house but i'm afraid my electric bill is going to be sky high kicking on & off that way.
The cycling off & on has me wondering if it's the motor circuitry like the contactor or the thermostat itself.
The cycle time vary's from a 1-3 minutes on time then goes off for 5 seconds & then back on in a continous cycle unless I set the temp to 70 then the burner goes off & stops the rapin cycle procedure. I never see the 70 degrees go higher to the desired setting I set it at.
I went ahead & reset the cycle time on the thermostat to 3 instead of 2.
Should I go ahead & get another digital thermostat or get a standard ac/heat one with a dial or lever.
This is my first digital one I've ever owned & not too happy with them.
My old lever type that did stop working a long long while back some years ago did fine.
I want to try that first unless you have some tips to see if it's in the unit itself causing my concern.
I thought it might be the thermal limit switch in the burner causing the problem not being able to control the temps.
I did replace the filters just the other day & they were dirty & it seemed like it helped but then started back with the small problem.
I have some small 3 ft. square holes 3 that I think I have under the trlr. whetre I had to repair some water lines a while back & havn't patched them yet but my pipes are ok & not freezing.
Had to replace the t-fittings on that lousy grey pipe & thought it might have something to do with underneith temps in the floor not staying warm enough. I have thick 1 1/2 foam insulated metal panels around my trlr. so I don't have to worry about It getting too cold under there & freezing my pipes.
Please don't preach to me about fixing the holes cause I have a bad back & hate crawling under there & mess with those cobwebs & damp ground. LOL
I thought might be a problem with the cold air getting to the duct work & causing the problem throwing off the temps to the furnace.
If you think that the problem then find me some of that belly repair tape & give me some tips on how to get the right measurement for them to order me the correct size.
Ordered some a long time ago here & they sent me a short 4 ft. piece & very narrow when I needed a piece to cover the 3-4 ft. squares I cut in the belly. Can't afford the large rolls.
I will get them fixed eventually as soon as I can find some of that under belly black repair tape.
Have pleanty of insulation to put up into the holes.
Can you direct me to where I can get one of those old style thermostats & we'll go from there?
Please help me cause its colder than a well diggers fanny here.
Sorry for long details here but don't want to leave anything out.
I'll be watching for your reply hopefully today cause i'm on vacation this week & may need to go buy a thermostat or what ever i might need to fix this problem.
Thanks!

My Intertherm unit model # is (MGH-055-ABWN-06)

You & your whole staff Have a Happy & Safe Holiday Season.
Tax refund time soon YEH!!
David

[Robert]

Hi David,

Read the last two sentences of my last reply to you above.

Go here for a Coleman lever t-stat :

http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/NordyneGas.html


903992 for 4 to 5 wire.

918082 for 2 wire.


Either can be ordered through PayPal from that page. Shipping is $8.00 .


It could be a limit or fan switch opening and closing.


Limits should always be closed unless overheating in chamber occurs.

Fan switch should be closed from 30 seconds after burner lights or so until 30 seconds to a minute after burner goes out.


Go here for all your underbelly needs :

http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/Order2.html#catalog


The sta-put spray works great and is quicker and easier than tape.


You can continue shopping and/or add to cart as you look at both pages given and order all at same time for one $8.00 shipping charge.


If you have any problems, call the office toll free at 1-877-263-7860 .




Thanks,
Robert

[homebuff]

Thanks Robert!
I'll be ordering the thermostat & belly tape kit soon but I went to WalMart yeterday & picked up a HoneyWell square shaped liked the 903922 with the fan switch on the thermostat & oped the package & in the instructions it said if its a 2 wire system it will not work.
Mine is a 5 wire setup with the internal rocker fan switch inside the unit. I believe I read on the forums about how to bypass the rocker switch using the 903922 thermostat.
I spent about an hour on the forums trying to find a solution to the fan running continously even when the inside temp & the temp setting reading are the same & the burner is still burning & it should turn off but it doesn't.
It runs continously unless I set the temp below the inside temp. Same as just setting it manually.
That to me sounds like the limit switch 626292 inside the metal box attached to the burner housing is sticking. The 626292 is the one I need isn't it?
Going to wait for your ideas whether I need the limit switch first before purchasing the other parts I need so my shipping will stay at $8.00 for all 3.
You have my model here but if I missed something let me know.
The fan is still running as I send you this reply & am going to have to go & shut it off or my electric bill is going to be sky high.
I'm off on vacation since yesterday all the way through till next wednesday so I have lots of time to hear back from you & get my unit up & going right & fixing my underbelly holes.
If only this frigid weather here will warm up some.
I see by looking at the limit switch 626292 that it's no longer availible.
Is there an alternative to this? If its as high as the one below it at $89.00 then I'm going to give the thermostat a try first.
What kinda readings should I be seeing at the terminals on the switch when the unit is still running when the room & settings temps are the same on the thermostat & the flame is still lit when the flame should be off & cooling down?
Thanks for you input.
David

[homebuff]

Thanks Robert!
I'll be ordering the thermostat & belly tape kit soon but I went to WalMart yeterday & picked up a HoneyWell square shaped liked the 903922 & oped the package & in the instructions it said if its a 2 wire sytem it will not work.
Mine is a 5 wire setup with the internal rocker fan switch inside the unit. I believe I read on the forums about how to bypass the switch using the 903922 thermostat.
I spent about an hour on the forums trying to find a solution to the fan running continously even when the inside temp & the temp setting reading are the same & the burner is still burning & it should turn off but it doesn't.
It runs continously unless I set the temp below the inside temp. Same as just setting it manually.
That to me sounds like the limit switch 626292 inside the metal box attached to the burner housing is sticking. The 626292 is the one I need isn't it?
Going to wait for your ideas weather I need the limit switch first before purchasing the other parts I need so my shipping will stay at $8.00 for all 3.
You have my model here but if I missed something let me know.
The fan is still running as I send you this repoly & am going to have to go & shut it off or my electric bill is going to be sky high.
I'm off on vacation since yesterday all the way through till next wednesday so I have lots of time to hear back from you & get my unit up & going right & fixing my underbelly holes.
If only this frigid weather here will warm up some.
I see by looking at the limit switch 626292 that it's no longer availible.
Is there an alternative to this? If its as high as the one below it at $89.00 then I'm going to give the thermostat a try first.
What kinda readings should I be seeing at the terminals on the switch when the unit is still running when the room & settings temps are the same on the thermostat & the flame is still lit when the flame should be off & cooling down?
Thanks for you input.
David

Robert I did some more testing by removing the red & white wires from the digital thermostat & reconnected the red & white wires from an additional standard 2 wire thermostat at the other end of the house & am trying that to see if it makes any diiferance in shutting off the unit when it reaches the desired temp to shut it off like it's suppost to.
That way I can illiminate the digital thermostat all together as being the culprit.
The old Intertherm standard thermostat has no in room temp gauge to tell me what temps the room reaches but I should be able to use the digital thermostat to go by shouldn't I ?
The inside of the cover on the old thermostat reads Convertible to heating & cooling application by adding Intertherm part #6243260,SB6A-5 Sub-Base.
I guess the number for the old thermostat must be on there.
I have it set on 71 for now to see if it's going to shut off or not.
The anticipator is set at 5 on the old thermostat.
Should I leave it be or lower the setting to 4,3, or 2?
In testing procedure now waiting for your response.

[homebuff]

Ok! I set the temp to 70 from 71 since the burner & fan have not shut off yet & waited a little bit & it did shut off.
The digital readout is flashing back & forth at a slow rate between 72 & 70 & keeps repeating it.
I did turn off the digital heat switch so I could use the old Intertherm thermostat.
I did not slice the 4 red-h & white-h wires in together, just the 2 red-h & white-h wires from the old Intertherm thermostat.
I don't know why this trlr. has the other thermostat in it at the other end of the house but it came with the trlr. from the factory that way.
Don't know if I'm testing it right or not.
Thank's!
David

[Robert]

Hi David,

Let me read over everything and reply back later today. Been away from office as we are still moving slowly from one home to another, while making huge changes in some business dealings and dealing with health issues.


Can say now though that the limit switch has no bearing on what is happening with furnace, so strike that idea off the radar.



Thanks,
Robert

[homebuff]

That's fine I can wait.
Hope the health issues are nothing serious. Not the time of the year for it.
Heater works fine sometimes than goes on the frtz other times.
Like it's got a mind of it's own.
Just using the Interhterm 2 wire thermostat manally for now.
No big hurry.

[homebuff]

Robert! How's your Sunday going so far?
I have one more question to ask.
Do you know where I can purchase a heat exchanger for my Intertherm unit?
I don't like the way the flame looks inside.
It dances (Flickers) around like it says in the troubleshoot section here & the flame has some yellow flame in it.
The stack is fine outside.
Maybe the gas valve is acting up but who knows.
The unit was manf. in 1987.
I mentioned something in a post here about it sometime back thinking the exchanger might have a leak or just simply worn out.
Lots of brown spots all inside but I don't see any cracks.
We have a bird in a cage right next to the unit but he hasn't died so far from any gases.
I heard birds were more sensitive to gases.
Wife has Fibro so it's hard to tell if she may be sick from it.
I'm fine myself but have relitives come over at times & thay all tend to sneeze alot & I do too at times.
It's got me to wondering if the unit exchanger may be leaking.
Have a friend that's a commercial a/c heat man hopefully coming out next week to check it out.
My Stepson is also in the business but he's always so busy.
The heat coming out of the registers is little warm but not hot.
No leaks in the ducts.
I can replace it with no problem cause i've had the whole unit out & apart from a complete cleaning before & know how its assembled.
I don't have the money to buy a whole new unit just want to repalce the exchanger.
Have already sunk money into it with a new motor from your place.
Thank's! David

[Robert]

Hi David,

Well, finally back on here and starting to read now. Health issues are serious, but something that I am having to accept and adjust to.

Will holler back when I get all your answers together.



Thanks,
Robert

[Robert]

Hi David,

Did this problem or running continuously happen suddenly, always been that way, after a repair or part changeout, etc ?


Do you have 4 or 5 wires connected at t-stat (new t-stat) ?

IF so, are all 4 or 5 also connected at furnace ?


That old t-stat was probably the original 2 wire t-stat for the home hvac system.

Since then, a newer t-stat has been installed and used elsewhere in home.


The very first thing you will need to know and be 100% sure of is whether your furnace and a/c systems run from a 2 wire or 4/5 wire set up.


That decides what and where any/all switches are set.


The Fan & Limit # 626174 ~should~ work ok for your furnace if needed. Will discuss this more later.


WHEN it runs continuous and won't shut off, it could also be to the heat anticipator being wrong on t-stat or t-stat not calibrated correctly.

Most t-stats will shut off at set temp or one degree over.


The heat anticipator should be set according to home furnace manual instructions, the rating on gas valve or after testing to get rating needed.


When furnace is not shutting off, see if you have 24VAC at the gas valve terminals.wires. IF you do, either you have system and/or t-stat set wrong or the t-stat is bad.


Thanks,
Robert

[homebuff]

Our thoughts & prayers go out to you & your family.
The digital thermostat is a 5 wire setup.
The unit is the original setup with the 5 wire.
All 5 wires were hooked up until I unhooked the RH & WH & hooked them to the Standard Intertherm thermotat at the other end of the home to override the digital thermostat.
The RC,WC & Brown are still hooked up to the digital thermostat.
I'm still wanting to know where I can purchase the heat exchanger assy. so I don't have to purchase a whole new unit.
Going to wait & see if my HAVC friend will show up this week & have him take a look at it & also take a look at the burner to see if it's burning ok.
I'll get back to you later with the findings.
David

[Robert]

Hi David,

I appreciate the prayers and thoughts very much. I remembered after I got off the pc that I forgot the heat exchanger info.


They run around $600 to $700 usually, let me see if one is available and get cost if so.


Do you have central a/c also, don't remeber ? If so, is it straight a/c w/split system (a-coil inside), a packaged a/c (all in one outside) or a heat pump ?




Thanks,
Robert

[homebuff]

Yes it is downdraft central heat & air with an outside unit & the a-coil is located in the bottom of the unit.
I replaced it a while back for the old metal tray being rotton & leaking & replaced with a plastic combinatiuon tray & coil assy.
Thats why I prefer just getting the heat exchanger only.
Spent too much money already on this unit.
Intertherm MGH-055-AMWN-06
It has a metal tag attached the main burner chamber that reads ( UL 7010 640 032 381 MH 6098 AD 670540 )
I was hoping I could just get the exchanger by itself but it looks as though I can't.
Thanks for checking it for me.
David