porch flooring repair

[tumbleweed]

This site has provided lots of valuable information since I purchased my mobile home months ago.

I have a 1984 Fleetwood. A built in porch is on both front and back door. By "built in" i mean it is part of the "rectangle shape" of the trailer; under the roof of the trailer.

They appear to be constructed of particle board, (same as the floor), and then there is a thin sheet of metal flooring over it. The particle board edges are swollen and won't allow the metal edge thing to be screwed in. Not for long anyways...

Anyways, I would like to make these built in porches more solid, and SAFE by being able to securely cover the jagged metal edge of the metal flooring tray thing.

The metal flooring appears to be some sort of water guard, as it has upturned edges on it that seem to go UNDER the aluminum siding. Apparently, the metal flooring tray thing was layed prior to the siding being applied. How do i remove and replace this ? Any ideas how I can attain the same moisture/water protection without reinstalling the metal floor covering tray thing?

I have the tools and capability to tear just about anything up, but this project, I would like to be able repair : )

I would prefer to NOT put the metal tray thing back down, if it is feasible NOT to do so. Any suggestions? Thanks much in advance.

[Greg]

Hi & welcome. I have seen that type of setup a few times, and always wondered why anyone would waste floor space for a porch.

With out seeing it I really can not say what I would do. Are there joists that could separate the floor to make a break inside / outside? My thought is to cut the subfloor out and replace it with pressure treated plywood and possibly go over that with 1x6 to give it a deck board look.

Perhaps others will have more ideas. Greg

[JD]

These doorways are just as tumbleweed said, just a section of the living room floor. It is just the same particle board with the aluminum skin on it. The edges are turned up to keep water from getting to the bottom of the wall. Whatever you use for a water proof surface, this angle metal or whatever you use is crucial. If the bottom of the wall is not totally sealed, you will have damaged floors in the entry way and maybe the living room. I would not trust just caulk. It will eventually separate from the walls and possibly allow leaks.

I think that metal may be the easiest and least expensive solution. But it does tend to warp. Bending a new piece of metal is a problem too. If you do not have a hand brake, you could have the metal made for you by a heating and cooling company that makes duct work. they will have the metal and everything. You just need to provide a drawing and dimensions.

Another possible solution would be to use a solid piece of STICK-N-REPAIR TAPE available through the Books and Parts link at the top of this page. This is a peel-n-stick product. I believe Mark said it was Eternabond (excellent stuff), but sold by a different name. Mark sells it for less too. As long as the subfloor underneath the STICK-N-REPAIR TAPE is solid and is covered with carpet of other flooring, it should last a very long time. I would still use an angle metal at the wall/floor joint. You can get it cheap at any home store. A solid 12" piece is expensive. You could go with a 4" roll and use two layers, overlapping the joints by 50%. I am sure Eternabond would be totally waterproof that way. One other thing. You will have to use the Eternabond primer on the wood subfloor. Eternabond/STICK-N-REPAIR TAPE does not stick that well to raw wood. The primer is not a paint primer. It is made specifically for this type of application as well as for use on concrete and questionable roof surfaces.

There are paintable water proofing products that would work too, but they would require a long cure time before walking on it.

Just some ideas.
JD

[tumbleweed]

thanks for the replies. It looks like my best bet is to leave the existing metal in place. Yes, it is "warped" or something and gives the impression of "unstable". But the subfloor is fine. Except for the edges that won't hold screws to hold the rounded metal edge cover in place.

Think I'll try longer screws and see if they can find "solid particle wood" (ha ha) to bite into and hold that metal trim piece in place for now.