furnace needs a total reset to work

[spopop]

Hi all, new guy here.
My furnace is a "Central Electric Furnace" Model EB15A (I am assuming this is Coleman.. if not let me know).

Its been working pretty good for last couple of years although it takes forever to heat up a cold house (separate problem maybe). Anyway we just returned from a three month trip and the thermostat was set around 60 or so the entire time. When we got back there was no display on the thermostat (Honeywell model with the digital display). I went to the furnace and tried resetting the breakers... no good. Then I turned on the fan switch at the furnace from auto to manual and it seem to run fine.. Went back to the thermostat and now there is a display. Turned the fan switch back to auto and the whole thing is working as normal again. In the last two days this problem has popped up again twice and I have to reset the breakers and cycle the fan for it to starting working again. Any ideas? thanks

[Robert]

Possibly an intermittent problem with a faulty breaker. Need to test when this happens to see where voltage break is at.


Thanks,
Robert

[spopop]

Thanks, but new question:

since there seem to be taking a long time to heat the house, I measured voltages while running.

The furnace has 3 elements and two of them had the same readings and the lower one was different. See attached diagram of one that works and the one that doesn't.

When running I can read 110v from ground to all points on diagram. When I look between A and B there is 220v. But when I read from C to D there is zero.

I turned the furnace off and measured resistance between A and B and C and D and the amount is the same around 13 ohms.

Do you think the problem may be the sequencer or the limit switch or what?? Any suggestions? thanks.

furnace.jpg

furnace.jpg

[Robert]

Hi,

For your 3 elements, you have two terminals each, one at far left and one at far right, all on white ceramic insulators.

I guess that would be A, B, C and D,,,,,,where is E and F ?


When t-stat is calling, IF all are working ok:

You will have 120vac from each to ground and 240vac across each set.


IF the left side is w/o voltage, suspect sequencers, wiring and breakers.

IF right is w/o voltage, suspect limits, wiring and breakers.


IF you take too long to test or it is intermittent, you can get 120vac to ground and zero across by the time you test there.

Get an ammeter with wrap around jaws and test each wire to the each ceramic insulator terminal with a call for heat after about a minute to minute and a half.


See what amp draws you are getting.

For further info, will need to go here and pay the troubleshooting fee:

http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/Order4b.html


Thanks,
Robert

[spopop]

All is working good now... replaced the sequencer. Thanks for all the help.

[Robert]

You're welcome.


Robert