mobilehomerepair.com

Hi,

Every Friday I'll give you a chance to win a prize. Only rule is that you can't win more than 1 prize in 60 days.

This week's winner will receive a coffee mug AND a $10 coupon good towards any purchase at our new online store http://www.aberdeenhomerepair.com/store/storefront.php. Just answer the following question.

List 4 things that are wrong with this block set. First one to post all 4 correctly wins!

Good luck!
Mark

The blocks should be placed with the holes up and down, not sideways.
The wedge on top should have 2 wedges pointed toward each other.
The blocks should be parallel with the frame, not at 90 degrees.
There appears to be no pad below the blocks. There should be a 16x16x4 pad.
The wood on top should not be smaller than the block size.

Did dinotoad win?

If not, I'd like to give it a try... but I know absolutely nothing about this stuff...dinotoad has my vote. But I'd change/edit the answer with:

But those blocks with holes...I'd go with alternating flat blocks without holes with alternating with holes. So in this situation I'd use 2 flat blocks instead of the one 2 hole block.

Then the wedge that is a triangle...wouldn't use it there as a shim as the taller part of the triangle is carrying more of the weight than the thinner part. So it shouldn't go there.

I feel stupid for even trying this. Maybe I should just delete this response. I don't know what I'm talking about.

Never be afraid to try. Dinotoad didn't quite get all the answers correctly. Keep trying!

Mark

ok, building on dinotoads answers, (which is what we do anyways on problem solving here anyways lol)

1. no pad under blocks

2. blocks need to be turned 45 degrees

3. need to have used less wood, replace most of wood with a 8 by 16 by 2 inch construction grade solid cement block ( same size as a paver brick, but in area, a paver brick would not be allowed)

4. blocks need to have the holes running up and down

Brenda (OH)

I meant "in my area, a garden paver brick would not pass inspection" Brenda (OH)

Keep trying. Some of the answers are correct, but not all.

Mark

Okay, I looked at mine and they are different-

mine are twice the amount of blocks...side by side. and I do have the holed blocks on some of them but they aren't laying down...they are upright when they are used. But I have those flat ones as well being used. And on top they all look alike with that concrete top.

And they are totally covered with this thick piece of wood- not a bunch of pieces like your picture.

And I do have those triangles...but always 2 when used.

but wood does not and in your picture cannot extend over air as in be bigger/longer than the block top, which is missing in your picture....kinda like a lid.

Well, that's 4 things....but I keep thinking that maybe the blocks are supposed to go along with the bar, not crossing it. And like a car... if you jack it up in the wrong spot you can bend the frame and the fender can pop out (had it happen to me)...does the stack of bricks have to be moved?

1) No footer or pad beneath blocks
2) Holes in blocks should be vertical/not horizontal
3) Wood shims should be same width/hardwood only
4) Shouldn't have a wedge-shaped shim at top

well first off bricks should have holes in vertical position for best support of the wait; i don't see a cap blockk on top, for weight distribution, and wood blocks should be hard wood, it should have a footing slab, and mine has anchor footings and tie straps

just remembered i'm not eligable oooopps, i by chance i'm right just give me a thata boy point

can I guess again?

1. no pad under blocks

2. blocks need to be turned 90 degrees (darn geometry gets me every time)

3. need to have used less wood, replace most of wood with a 8 by 16 by 2 inch construction grade solid cement block ( same size as a paver brick, but in area, a paver brick would not be allowed)

4. blocks need to have the holes running up and down

Brenda (OH)

1> blocks should be placed with the holes up and down,for increased strength
2>There should be a 16x16x4 pad under blocks
3>The axle should be removed so the home sits on the blocks.
4>the blocks should have a equal or lesser hardwood pad on top of them.
also in some areas blocks are not permitted and bottle jacks must be used check codes.

Very good-

the home isn't even lifted....just sitting on the ground.

When I looked at mine, I have way more bricks, not just two.

Can two even 'support' a home?

I guess everyone is in agreement about the
1- either pads, concrete foundation- something under blocks
2-the top/lid/cap- whatever you want to call it for the top of the blocks
3-the blocks can't sit flat with holes, they have to stand up
4- that wedge can't be alone...but have a companion...be two
5- the wood on top can't extend over air, must be same length as block, can't be cheapy wood has to be really good weatherproofed, hard stuff.
6- (asked my neighbor who has smaller trailer) if using single stack- they have to run parallel with the beam as the other poster said, but mine are double stacked because my home is larger and heavier.
7-I have such a competitive nature I'm going to go crazy if someone doesn't win this!

Getting really really close, but I'm still holding out for a bit pickier answers.