Another metal roof... "Inexpensive metal Roof..."?

[TwilightFenrir]

Alright, I'm sure this question gets asked alot... because I searched and read every topic on it I could find... But, as might be expected with the huge variety of mobile homes out there, I didn't find one that quite pertained to my situation...

I've just bought an '89 14x80 mobile home (Don't have the manufacturer on hand atm) with a peaked-galvenized rolled roof. It's never been sealed, and it's never leaked either. And, this continues to be the case. The problem I'm having isn't with the roof itself, but is caused by it.

Right now, I have T1-11 siding, and it was put up fairly recently, but there are 3-4 panels that have completely rotted out over the last 5 years or so, because the roof just rolls right over the top of the siding, and that's it... the water just pours right down the front of the siding, and in this one place, there are 2 windows that have been leaking for a decade fairly close together, so it's just a disaster area.

I'd like to wrap the house with Tyvek before winter, and I'd like to replace the bad panels, then just go right over it all and treat the siding as plywood, and put some form of vinyl, or steel siding on top of it all. But the way the roof is attatched makes this impossible.

I'm in northern Minnesota, so I get everything from -40F to the triple-digits. Don't have to worry about hurricanes though I also have T1-11 skirting, which I plan on getting a bunch of 4x8x2" foam-board cutting in-half, and sticking behind to add insulation under the house as well. And would like to put tyvek over this as well, leaving tollerances for access points where necessary.

The ceilings in half the house are peaked as well, so I think putting up shingles ontop of everything is out of the question without significant structural modifications. I saw the article posted on here about the metal roof you can do yourself... And from the images I have a pretty good idea what they're getting at, and I like the idea, but I'm not sure if it will be good for my situation. I'd like to add some soffet, and get a nice significant overhang to keep this problem from occurring again, maybe 8+ inches if possible...

Thoughts? Idea's? Opinoins?

[JD]

I'd like to wrap the house with Tyvek before winter, and I'd like to replace the bad panels, then just go right over it all and treat the siding as plywood, and put some form of vinyl, or steel siding on top of it all. But the way the roof is attatched makes this impossible.

If the problem you see is that there is no room for the siding where the roof-siding transition is, you could install a metal Z-bar under the drip rail like in the drawing below. If you don't have a drip rail and the roof metal is just bent at the edge and attached, I would definitely add a drip rail. The stuff is pretty cheap, especially if you can pick it up without shipping. You can get steel Z-bar trim at most home stores, but you may want to have it custom made for your situation by a local hvac shop that makes ducting.

If all you have is roof metal bent over siding (which is a sure leak problem), I would install the drip rail in this order. Butyl rubber putty tape, roof metal, another layer of tape and then the drip rail. The Z-bar tucks in tight under the drip rail. That is how I do it anyways. Be sure all water damaged siding is replaced and use 1 1/2" screws to attach the new siding through the old siding and into the studs. I would not rely on just attaching the new siding to the old hardboard siding. True plywood T1-11 may be alright though.

My main concern would be being sure that all water damage, mold and mildew issues are addressed.

JD

[TwilightFenrir]

I'd like to wrap the house with Tyvek before winter, and I'd like to replace the bad panels, then just go right over it all and treat the siding as plywood, and put some form of vinyl, or steel siding on top of it all. But the way the roof is attatched makes this impossible.

If the problem you see is that there is no room for the siding where the roof-siding transition is, you could install a metal Z-bar under the drip rail like in the drawing below. If you don't have a drip rail and the roof metal is just bent at the edge and attached, I would definitely add a drip rail. The stuff is pretty cheap, especially if you can pick it up without shipping. You can get steel Z-bar trim at most home stores, but you may want to have it custom made for your situation by a local hvac shop that makes ducting.

If all you have is roof metal bent over siding (which is a sure leak problem), I would install the drip rail in this order. Butyl rubber putty tape, roof metal, another layer of tape and then the drip rail. The Z-bar tucks in tight under the drip rail. That is how I do it anyways. Be sure all water damaged siding is replaced and use 1 1/2" screws to attach the new siding through the old siding and into the studs. I would not rely on just attaching the new siding to the old hardboard siding. True plywood T1-11 may be alright though.

My main concern would be being sure that all water damage, mold and mildew issues are addressed.

JD

There is a drip-rail, but it has been removed, and re-installled, when my aunt (The previous owner) replaced the siding. It appears she just put silicone between the drip-edge and the roof. There are a few gaps between the lengths, and there's a 3/8" gap right in the aforementioned disaster area. And, a foot away, there's even a gap in the T1-11, which has also been letting water in. So everything that could go wrong with re-siding, went wrong in this one 8-12' area.

I have the drywall off on all the exterior walls, so I've got a pretty good idea of what the conditions are like in the entire trailer. There was mold on the bottom 1-2' of the drywall when I bought the place, so I had a good idea what I was getting into. However, this is from the damage to the previous siding, before the T1-11 was installed. There's alot of damage around the windows, but I've replaced all the windows already with proper house-windows. And all the rotted studs have been replaced as well, minus one I can't get to due to kitchen cupboards, but I'll get that one when I get around to fixing up the kitchen.

I'll go get some butyl rubber tape, and re-do where the roof connects, and should I add an overlap on the drip-rail seams? Also, if I want to add tyvek to this equation, would it be rubber/tyvek/rubber/roof/rubber/drip edge? Or, would I just put the tyvek below the z-bar? I had alot of trouble sealing up my windows, due to the deep grooves in the T1-11 siding, took several tries (and ALOT of silicone) to keep the water out of those channels. The worst of this though, was where there was another gap in the driprail.