Coleman DGAT056BDD

[Guest]

I am wondering what is the HP of the blower motor. It has been replaced with a dayton motor that is 1/6 HP.

My AC unit will run all day and the temp will rise thoughout the day. Unit is putting out cold air just doesn't seem to be enough.

I will be adding window tint as soon as it comes in.

Thanks, Jim

[Robert]

Hi,

The OEM hp is 1/6 hp also. It is an a/c ready motor. Depending on a/c size, there are alternatives for you to consider.

How many tons is your a/c unit ?

Also, be sure the filter, blower motor, motor wheel and a-coil are all clean.

Also check ductwork for any blockages, by laying flashlight down in duct and going to next register and holding mirror down in duct and looking back at light.

If in a double or triplewide with crossover duct(s) underneath home, make sure they aren't loose, torn or kinked and not laying on the ground.


Take care and best wishes,
Robert

[Guest]

Robert,

Thanks for the HP on the motor, so I can eliminate it being the improper size. I do have a couple of questions.

"It is an a/c ready motor." What do you mean by this.

I looked on the label of the outside compressor unit for the numbers, the label is there and the printing is good for everything excpet the numbers that I need, they are gone. How else could I figure the size? The unit is made by miller is all I know at this point.

The trailer is a doublewide, the ductwork under is metal and not those flexable tubes that some have. The insulation that was around the tubes are gone. I would think there would only be one tube to connect both ducts, but it looks like its two or three, hard to tell right now. Could a fan be added somewhere in the other duct to increase airflow? There are no obstructions in the ductwork.

I have replaced the filter, checked the blower motor and wheel, insignificant amount of dust. The a-coil hasn't been looked at, I was trying to avoid that because of the way its sealed. The temp out of the duct is about 20 degrees lower then room temp. I thnk I have amble air flow except at the two end outlets.

I purchased this mobile home after my home was destoyed by Katrina. The damage here wasn't taken care of and now I am doing what needs to be done. I did remove all the blinds because they were old and looked terrible, that is why I am getting the window tint for solar heat. Being in the deep south, I figure I will spend more on a/c then heating.

Thanks,

Jim

[Robert]

Hi Jim,

You can give me the Model Number off of the Compressor that is down inside of outside Condenser Unit.

That statement "A/C ready" means that the motor you have is ok for use with a/c as well as heat.

I would n't place a duct booster fan in a MH duct as they are made of thin aluminum and more susceptible to damage.

I'll edit this post in a few and add a link to something that may help.

Yep, the a-coil is sealed up fairly well on a gas furnace, but should be cleaned at least once a year.

A doublewide shouldn't have more than two crossover ducts and they should have insulation as an outer layer.

Flex duct is not good for those, hard metal is best.

At the very least, install two 90* elbows and then stretch a tight section of flex duct across between them.

This keeps from having kinks and sags.


( I sent you a pm about this).


Take care and best wishes,
Robert

[Guest]

I have found out the a/c unit is either 3 or 3 1/2 ton. I had the inside coil removed to clean because it appeared to be very dirty. I figured this was the problem with the a/c not blowing out alot, but found out that it wasn't that dirty and air flow didn't improve much.

I was talking with the person working on my unit and he said it didn't seem the motor was running at the speed it was supose to. He looked at the diagram of how the motor was wired and said it should be a 3 speed motor about 1750 rpm. Which would require removing the jumper for the cool side and going directly to the motor. Can I use this type of motor and wire it directly to the "cool" relay?

There was also a metal tab in the a/c line, it was removed, should it have been? I thought I read something about it, but I can't seem to find it.

Motor information: Dayton 3M601C, 1/6 hp, 1050 rpm, 115 volts, 5.9 amps.

Thanks

Jim

[Robert]

Hi Jim,


The OEM a/c ready motor is 1/6 hp, 1000 rpm, 1 speed . If that is what you have, it only has 1 speed.


You can upgrade to a 1/3 - 1/2 hp, about 1050 - 1075 rpm and 3 speeds.


Checking on that assembly now, our local distributor is out waiting on shipment and other closest distributor has computer problem.

Waiting on a reply from them.



No need to straight wire or modify any wiring, good way to end up with damaged equipment.



Thanks,
Robert

[Guest]

Found a new motor that meets the specs that I need to change this configuration.

It draws less current then the stock motor and gives me 3 speeds max being 1625 rpm. Rewiring the unit is simple, it changes nothing except the heat and cool will now be at different speeds. Electronics is my career field so this isn't hard, and safety requirements have been meet.

As soon as I install the motor I will let you know the results.

[Robert]

As long as it is a MH rated motor and matches your a/c required airflow. 1075 should be max rpm .


Not all units are designed for different speeds on heat and cool.

When it is ok, still no rewiring necessary. You just change the speed taps.





Thanks,
Robert