washers for water supply

[Stratman_69]

Hello forum,

I am trying to find proprietary washers for my bathroom sink water intake. I am having no luck. I am pretty sure they must be proprietary because every similar washer I have tried does not fit correctly. The first pic shows my 2 washers in front with others I have tried behind it. The second pic is just the 2 washers. I have no water in my b-room for weeks so I really need some help here! thanks guys!

[joedirt63]

hello , the water supply lines may be a plastic type supply with plastic fitting. for all the sinks and supllies for the toilet i would up grade with a shut off valve on both hot and cold this way you can use convetional supply lines to the sink and other supllies. you can crimp the fitting or use shark bite type shut offs ,( they slide on the pipe and lock) mixed opinions about the shark bites though, the best way is to crimp the fitting. you can check the online store in this web site may find washers , but i would and did upgrade the supplies with shut offs. greg and they others should chime in and tell you better. but with upgrade it's easier to find parts.

[Greg]

I have to agree with Joe - UPGRADE you will be glad you did. As for the push lock type connectors, I have had 50-50 success with them. I have gone back to crimping. Don't cheap out when you buy a valve, use brass or stainless only. Plastic body valves tend to fail when you need them the most.

Greg

[Stratman_69]

Ok, so here are my shut-off valves under the sink. Are you saying I just need to replace the pvc piping form the shut-off valve to the sink on both? Does all of this come in one piece (or is the sink attachment separate (3rd pic) as well) and also how do I do I remove the old pieces and install the new ones and where do I purchase? Thank guys.

[Greg]

I can't tell for sure from the picture if the connection at the valve is a glued or threaded. if it is threaded you should be able to disconnect it and replace the section from the valve to the faucet.

If it is a glued, you may have to cut it and use an adapter to get to a standard supply line. I would get a measurement of the length first and hit the hardware store first before making any cuts. That way you are sure you have the right stuff.

Greg

[Stratman_69]

Greg,

I'm not sure either, but what I need to know now is, can I take just the top piece (slip-joint nut I think. Is this what it's called?) out and replace THAT, or do I have to take the entire piece of pipe off of the shut off valve and replace THAT? Also, does this all come in one piece somewhere or do I have to buy the pieces separately?

[Stratman_69]

Greg,

I ended up cutting it all off. There was no way I could get it apart any other way. Here is the aftermath...lol. Also, the shut-off valve was flanged, but doesn't really seem THREADED to me. As you can see, I had to cut it all of with my Dremel.

[JD]

That is Wirsbro ProPex fittings and rings. They use expander tools to open up the pipe and ring, and then they just let the pipe relax back to its original dimension, making the sealed connection at the fitting. To continue with this type of fittings, you'd probably need to call a plumber with the proper tools.

This is 1/2" pex pipe, so you should be able to use copper crimp, stainless clamp or push fittings like SharkBite. If you don't have and don't want to buy pex tools for crimps or clamps, I have used the BrassCraft PushConnect Stop many times on copper tubing and pex. I have never had a problem with them. I do a lot of floor and under sink repairs. I reuse the same ones over and over as a temp shut off while cutting holes in plywood floors or shelves.

Cut the pipe straight across, push the fitting in until you feel the click. Screw on your flexible supply line to that and your faucet. Hopefully it will work for as well for you as it has for me.

[Greg]

I was thinking that by the markings on the side of the tube in the first picture that it looked like PEX, But I have never seen that type of connection before, just the crimp ring.

Something new today!! Hope there's not a test tomorrow . Greg

[Stratman_69]

Here is the info from the side of the piping: TuffPEX by Uphonor 1/2 IN SDR9 PEX-a B137.5 Potable/NSF-PW (*this is boxed) ASTM F876/F877/160 PSI 73.4°F/100 PSI 180°F....and that's all I can read before my cut.

JD, so I should REPLACE my current shut-off valves with the BrassCraft PushConnect Stop and then use a new supply line from that to the sink right? Where would be a good place to purchase these as well as the new supply segment? Also, does the new supply segment come constructed together (PEX pipe AND the slip-joint nut w/washer) or do I have to construct all this as well? Thank you!

[JD]

That depends a lot on you. I would think that buying PEx tools and a PEx stop valve would be the very best. But there is an investment into specialty tools and a small learning curve. With a BrassCraft PushConnector valve, there are no special tools, but crimp rings and clamps are considered better plumbing by probably everyone, including me. That being said, I have used these valves with copper pipe and use them often as temp stop valves on pex, cpvc and gray PB pipe.

You can get BrassCraft plumbing products just about anywhere. I think all of the home stores and plumbing stores carry it.

[Stratman_69]

Thank JD, I think I will try those due to cost reasons. One thing I still need to know. How to replace this valve? Is there a similar 'push-in" type I can use and could you link me to one somewhere so I can see it? Thank you.

[Greg]

As long as you are working with PEX, you can stop at any home center or hardware store and pick up what you need. The clerk should be able to explain and "dry build" the line & valve for you.

Greg

[JD]

I'm not positive from looking at the picture, but that looks like a standard 1/2" pipe thread made to go to a faucet. The new stainless steel braided supply line would replace that part. All you would need is the Brasscraft shut-off valve and a supply line for each of your lines (two, one for hot, one for cold). Measure the distance from where you will be cutting the main water line at the base of the cabinet to the faucet. Keep it loose and add enough room to reposition the line where you will need it. You want this length to be 30" or less, as that is a standard length for long supply lines. You can get them longer, but you shouldn't need to.

Here are url's to the BrassCraft shut off valve and supply line from Home Depot. Print out the pages and take them to your store. As Greg said, most any home store will have this for you.

Shut-off valve
http://tiny.cc/1a4mx

30" Supply line
http://tiny.cc/fwiip

[JD]

I also wanted to add that you be sure to keep the keeper disc in place. To remove one of these push valves from a pipe, you pull that keeper disc out and just give the valve a pull and it pops right off. Only good when that is what you want to happen.