Hi Gang -
First off, just about every window in the house is going to get re-framed to new sizes, sliding glass door removed, etc. so there will be quite a few areas that will need to have the exterior siding patched in and/or cut out. Currently: 1977 Madison double wide; T-11 (Masonite?) siding. I think I have 2 x 4 exterior walls, hopefully 16" O.C., but I couldn't really swear to the O.C. spacing. The current siding is in pretty good shape for it's age.
I'm not even sure if I can get the same exact wood grain pattern of my current siding for patching purposes since siding patterns come and go.
I now have an opportunity to purchase enough siding for my entire house for about $660. It is Collinswood pre-primed cottage lap horizontal planks - 16 foot long x 16" tall each plank. I think this is an extremely good buy because the last I checked, similar pre-primed planks at Home Depot were about $26 bucks a piece.
On to my questions: Weight - always the concern. As best I can tell, a "unit" (105 planks) is about 4300 lbs total, so about 40 lbs a plank. If I buy this siding, should I be concerned with using the existing T-11 as sheathing, and then putting the planks over the top (vapor barrier to be installed as well) from a weight standpoint? I have outriggers every 8 feet. If I go this route, would offset perimeter piers be helpful? Specifications are shown here: http://www.collinsco.com/Library/TruWoo ... Siding.pdf
Or, would I be better off to remove the old siding and use 1/2 Rigid Foam sheathing, and then the planks? On a side note, currently have the wonderful wood paneling inside, and plan to drywall with 1/4" drywall (more weight).....
I tried searching for siding, but only came up with 3 posts here with that word (really?).
Thanks!
Tami
Siding Questions
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
If the T111 is sound & dry, you should be able use that as sheathing with with no problem. I would use Tyvek under the vinyl as you said.
remember not to cheap out on the windows, spend the little extra and buy a quality window.
Since you are planning on drywall, I would add some perimeter blocking just to be safe.
Only 3 siding posts? It may be something in the wording for a search, It does seem like there should be more.
Greg
remember not to cheap out on the windows, spend the little extra and buy a quality window.
Since you are planning on drywall, I would add some perimeter blocking just to be safe.
Only 3 siding posts? It may be something in the wording for a search, It does seem like there should be more.
Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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Hi Greg,
The siding I want to use is not vinyl - if it were vinyl, I wouldn't worry about the extra weight. This siding is an engineered wood product so probably quite a bit more weight than vinyl, but probably slightly less than a fiber cement product. That's my concern about leaving the T1-11 in place and doubling up on the weight if I use this siding.
I already purchased my windows - no skimping there either. Top of the line Marvin's and Andersen's just because I got a great buy on them.
The siding I want to use is not vinyl - if it were vinyl, I wouldn't worry about the extra weight. This siding is an engineered wood product so probably quite a bit more weight than vinyl, but probably slightly less than a fiber cement product. That's my concern about leaving the T1-11 in place and doubling up on the weight if I use this siding.
I already purchased my windows - no skimping there either. Top of the line Marvin's and Andersen's just because I got a great buy on them.
I think that with Perimeter blocking you should be fine. I really would want some type of sheathing, foam would work fine. It almost seems like a lot of work to rip the T111 off, but the foam would be lighter and give a little more R value to the insulation.
I guess it depends on how much work you want to do.
Greg
I guess it depends on how much work you want to do.
Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
In regards to your comment on installing "vapour barrier" make sure you install Tyvek not actual plastic vapour barrier.
As far as your choice of siding is concerned I personally would not use it regardless of the savings. I believe that the weight along with the weight of adding drywall inside will definitely be a negative factor. Yes you could add additional blocking but on a home as old as yours there is already sagging occurring and this is only going to get worse.
My personal choice is always vinyl siding not only for the weight consideration but additionally for a more modern appearance. At 2-3X your deal price it's still worth it to me to avoid the headaches of adding as much weight as you are talking about on a home that old.
Buy the siding, resell it at twice the price and invest in vinyl siding.
As far as your choice of siding is concerned I personally would not use it regardless of the savings. I believe that the weight along with the weight of adding drywall inside will definitely be a negative factor. Yes you could add additional blocking but on a home as old as yours there is already sagging occurring and this is only going to get worse.
My personal choice is always vinyl siding not only for the weight consideration but additionally for a more modern appearance. At 2-3X your deal price it's still worth it to me to avoid the headaches of adding as much weight as you are talking about on a home that old.
Buy the siding, resell it at twice the price and invest in vinyl siding.
An individual must enforce his own meaning in life and rise above the perceived conformity of the masses. (Anton LaVey)
- flcruising
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Currently, the T1-11 is acting as a sheathing material and a finish. If you remove it, I recommend you install sheathing as it provides structural rigidity. Then you are right back to adding the weight savings back.
[color=blue]Aaron[/color]
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