Compressor/nailer question

[stillworking]

Even here in "cheap" southeastern Oklahoma, labor costs are escalating and I am seriously thinking about replacing my particle board floors myself. Although I call myself "stillworking" I am actually pretty much retired and only work on my mobile home rentals. I have some experience taking out particle board floors and since I live alone and can work at my own pace I think this job is doable. My questions concerns equipment.

Today at Home Depot I saw a Porter Cable compressor/nailer set on sale for $289. The pancake compressor is 90psi, 6 gallon, oil free, 2.65 CFM (or 2.6 SCFM - can't read my writing) and includes hoses and fittings. It has a Finish Nailer FN250B (16 gauge, 3/4" - 2-1/2" ), a Brad Nailer BN125A (18 gauge, 5/8" - 1-1/4"), and a Stapler NS100A Narrow Crown (18 gauge, 1/2" - 1"). Each includes 1000 fasteners.

I just used a hammer for the small flooring jobs I have done in the past, but for this much bigger project I think I should consider something to make the job easier. I'm open to any and all suggestions. If it matters - 140 pound female. Thanks very much for any suggestions.

[Yanita]

Hi,

Sorry I can not comment on the tools...one of the guys will come along and help you with that. Some of the big box stores are now selling power tools that are designed to be used by women.

When installing sub floor patches, or total replacement it is better to use screws. Our homes shift with the seasons and nails have a tendency to "back out" after awhile.

Have you purchased Mark's Manual for MH Repairs and Upgrades. This is a great item in your tool box! It can be found in the books/parts link above.

Have a great day!

~Yanita~

[Harry]

Hi

I agree with Yanita on the screws. I use construction adhesive plus the screws.

I wish I had that air operated stapler when replacing underbelly.

Harry

[JD]

Screws are good. I have used them many times, especially on the smaller repairs. When doing a large job, we'll use a medium crown 16ga stapler. These are a bit more industrial and will be pretty pricey compared to a finish stapler. For sheathing, you need at least 16ga staples and width enough length to penetrate the framing by at least 1-1/4". The 18 gauge narrow crown staples will not be strong enough to hold floor sheathing and will end up making for squeaky floors.

Pneumatic staplers or ring shank nails in a framing nailer is almost a must for us as contractors. On plywood subfloors, we nail 4" on center around the perimeter and 8" oc on the interior joists. When you are doing 4 sheets or more, pneumatics save a lot of time. The investment in the right stapler or nailer is worth the effort saved, even for DIY. If I had to buy one nailer for heavier work (than finish work), I would buy a framing nailer. This will run your 16d and 20d nails as well as the ribbed sheathing nails.

JMO

JD

[stillworking]

Thank you all for your responses.

Yanita - I do have Mark's book and I've used it more than once as "evidence" when a workman disagreed with how I wanted something done. Everybody who owns a mobile home needs this book!!

JD - I read your post about a half-dozen times, and I think what I need is a finish nailer that can nail at different angles, so I can piece in reinforcements. I did a quick google search, and most of what I turned up seem to use round-head stick nails. These are different from the ribbed sheathing nails, right? I know I have to go to the big box stores and look, but the guys there are usually as helpless as I am - sometimes more - so the more I can know before I go, the better. Can you tell me - as a starting point - the finish nailer that you use? What about cord vs. pneumatic? For what it's worth, I don't mind the $$ part of it - some of the guys who work for me have to sort of make-do - and they always appreciate being able to use my good tools, plus it's a legit deduction. Thanks for allowing me to ask yet more questions.

[JD]

Hi stillworking,

I don't know of a finish nailer that drives ribbed sheathing nails. There might be some, but I don't know of them. I am thinking if you got that compressor kit, you would have the compressor and trim/finish nailers. Then to fasten floor or roof sheathing and for framing needs, I would recommend a framing nailer like the one below.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... =100465406

You can spend more for a nailer, but this tool will work excellent for you. If you decide to not get a framing nailer, I would recommend using screws, at least 6" oc. If your fastener does not have enough holding power, the floor will squeak. And if you do a lot of repairs, you will love having a framing nailer.

Hope this helps,

JD

[stillworking]

JD - Thanks!! The finish nailer you put the link to would hook up to the compressor, right?

I have the 14.4 volt Porter Cable drill driver and had originally intended to use that, but I hurt my right shoulder a couple of weeks ago moving concrete pavers for my 88-year-old aunt, and that got me to thinking about getting something more automatic.

Haven't used the drill driver on enough big jobs to know how long the two battery packs would last. Do you think using the finish nailer would be easier physically?

[Greg]

Stillworking, I own a porter cable finish nailer, I also work for a National rental house, they rent both Bostich & porter cable, I can honestly say that I have seen less problems with the P.C. than Bostich. I agree with the rest, use screws the last thing you want is a squeek in the floor. Greg

[JD]

Hi stillworking,

With the nailer, you just push it down where you want a nail and pull the trigger. Very easy. When you get comfortable with the gun, you can hold the trigger down and just bump the nailer where you want the nail and it fires. While this allows you to go faster, it is not as easy as it sounds. Until you get the feel for it, you may have some nails that don't drive all the way in. The down side is, you have to lug the compressor to where you want to work and a nail gun can jamb on you from time to time. Best advice there is to buy Porter Cable nails for a Porter Cable gun, Bostitch for Bostitch etc.. These plastic collated nail strips can be 20degree, 21degree, 22degree. While you can mix gun and nail brands, you will get more jambs. I have also seen a (reckless) man accidentally shoot a roofing staple into his leg once. Had to go to an emergency room to get it taken out. Not a good thing.

Using your cordless gun and screws may take a little longer and be more work, but it is not hard to do and really not that bad for a few sheets of plywood. Over the years, I have found several ways to hurt myself with a cordless and screws, but I didn't need a DR. Just some cussing credits. Dumbest thing I have ever done with a screw gun is put an extra charged battery in my nail bag. I started a smoldering fire in the bag when the battery leads were able to arc across the screws in the bag.

Bottom line, if you think you will be doing a lot of floors, framing, maybe a wood fence someday and love having tools, you will like the nail gun. The compressor kit with the brad nailers and such is almost a must. But I would not use it to nail plywood sheathing.

JD

[stillworking]

JD and Greg - Thank you both more than I can say. I could have spent the next two weeks in HD and Lowes and never gotten this kind of information. From what you have told me I think my best plan is to use the porter cable drill driver I already have and screw the plywood down. I'll keep your suggestions re the nail gun in case bigger jobs come up in the future. Again, many, many thanks.

[Robert]

Hi,

Just wanted to add that I have that Porter Cable combo kit and it is a great buy and well worth it.

As previously said, you will need a framing nailer and larger compressor for flooring and roof/wall sheathing.

I have a Stanley/Bostitch very similar to the link JD gave that is good.

I also recently bought a Paslode airless framing nailer that I love.


I nail any joists or framing studs, etc. and use hangers where applicable.

On sheathing, I screw it down, but if I did more of it, would go with the heavier duty 16ga. stapler JD mentioned.

On flooring, I sometimes also use Liquid nails construction adhesive on the joists for more holding strength.

It depends on the application as to whether or not I use the adhesive though.


Be sure that you get screws and nails to meet the specs for the wood you're using. Treated wood requires coated galv. screws /nails for example.


Take care and best wishes,
Robert

[altasnowman]

Hi , guess i must be old fashioned cause in my book of learning i was taught to glue and screw. having said that i have tried using air and altho it may be quicker, i find that the old way is still the best way(no squeaks). guess the choice is yours but you are the one that is paying the bills.

[Guest]

I have both the pc finish nailer and brad nailer , I also have a pc framing nailer I used on subfloors. I also used liquid nails to help with sqeeks. I havent had the floors down long but no sqeeks yet. I know the liquid nails helped in a regular house before. I use a 6.5 horse compresser with 26 gallon tank . I never run out of air. Last long time before its cahrges back up when using small nailers . just watch out for stuff underneath that someone may have put close to the floor if your house is older. I had water lines up against the old floor in spots. If you miss with 3 inch nails it might get something like ducting or water lines if they jerry rigged stuff under neath.