Interior kitchen wall - strength for cabinets
Posted: Sun May 13, 2012 6:20 pm
I took out the original/cheap/lightweight/ugly/filthy cabinets when the kitchen was gutted. The subfloor needed repair/replacement and there was no way to save the lower cabinets. I discovered while doing plumbing that the wall studs between the kitchen and bathroom are 1x4. I have serious doubts about this being able to handle my oak cabinets (lucked out on Craigslist). They are very good quality but heavy!!!
The subfloor is now 1.5 inches - repaired existing crudola floor with 3/4 plywood and added 3/4 plywood above that. Only fell through once. The kitchen will have sheet vinyl.
The wall sills that the 1x4s are attached to are also 1x4. So, can I add some 2x4s into the mix? I would have to tear out the paneling. I would then try to sister the 2x4s to some of the existing studs. Would using builder's hardware angles or brackets make a stronger connection? I can work around most of the existing stuff but would wind up with some non-standard measurements. Most of the obstacles are towards the corner with the exterior wall and that will be boxed in, so I don't care if the wall is finished there. That corner contains the drain stacks and incoming supply lines.
Worse case scenario is having to re-do the entire wall with 2x4s throughout. The ceiling only needs paint - no holes. I don't want to risk damaging it while pulling down a wall. There are pipes, pex and some wiring going through the wall so I don't want to rip the whole thing out and re-work everything back in.
I was wondering about using plywood instead of drywall for the new wall. I was thinking it would be easier to attach the cabinets and more secure. I would use "good one side" plywood, maybe 1/2 inch? Or would 3/4" be better? If I used plywood, would I need to worry about hitting the studs all the time to secure the cabinets? I'd either paint or wallpaper the rest. Since the ceiling is only 7.5 feet, the sheets would stand on end and add to the wall strength. Two or three sheets would do the job.
The other wall is the center where the two halves of the DW meet. Is this likely to have 1x4 studs also? I am guessing it's a load-bearing wall since it extends into the LR.
I can't put a lot of money into this since it's from the 1970s and Fl. won't let you insure it for more than your purchase price.
The subfloor is now 1.5 inches - repaired existing crudola floor with 3/4 plywood and added 3/4 plywood above that. Only fell through once. The kitchen will have sheet vinyl.
The wall sills that the 1x4s are attached to are also 1x4. So, can I add some 2x4s into the mix? I would have to tear out the paneling. I would then try to sister the 2x4s to some of the existing studs. Would using builder's hardware angles or brackets make a stronger connection? I can work around most of the existing stuff but would wind up with some non-standard measurements. Most of the obstacles are towards the corner with the exterior wall and that will be boxed in, so I don't care if the wall is finished there. That corner contains the drain stacks and incoming supply lines.
Worse case scenario is having to re-do the entire wall with 2x4s throughout. The ceiling only needs paint - no holes. I don't want to risk damaging it while pulling down a wall. There are pipes, pex and some wiring going through the wall so I don't want to rip the whole thing out and re-work everything back in.
I was wondering about using plywood instead of drywall for the new wall. I was thinking it would be easier to attach the cabinets and more secure. I would use "good one side" plywood, maybe 1/2 inch? Or would 3/4" be better? If I used plywood, would I need to worry about hitting the studs all the time to secure the cabinets? I'd either paint or wallpaper the rest. Since the ceiling is only 7.5 feet, the sheets would stand on end and add to the wall strength. Two or three sheets would do the job.
The other wall is the center where the two halves of the DW meet. Is this likely to have 1x4 studs also? I am guessing it's a load-bearing wall since it extends into the LR.
I can't put a lot of money into this since it's from the 1970s and Fl. won't let you insure it for more than your purchase price.