Sheetrock over....sheetrock???

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Ostracon
Posts: 7
Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2012 2:38 pm

Hi all,

Yesterday we bought a 1982 Star (haven't heard of that brand before) 14x54 2bed/1bath in really good condition about 25 miles south of Portland, OR. It has a rubber roof cap over foam sheet insulation (2" I think). It has some newer vinyl windows on the front door side and the rear (bedroom), and stock windows in the bath, the large bay window in the front (kitchen) and one other on the back door side - more on the latter later.

We got it for $3200 from a guy who recently retired and will be motor-homing around the country, so he wanted a fast sale. (He bought it for $5500 four years ago.) We saw his craigslist ad about 15 minutes after he posted it - he got calls wanting it while we were looking at it (and another twenty or so while we were waiting on park approval; one guy even offered to give him $500 over his asking price, but thankfully he's an honest guy). :P

We're going to do some work before we move into it, then finish the projects we started on the one we're in now after we move out. We've been living in a construction zone with this one for the past year and had enough of that for a while.

The odd thing is the previous owner (prior to the one we bought it from) sheetrocked the exterior walls in the livingroom and down the hall. Where the sheet rock ends at the mirrored panels in the corner of the livingroom, there is no trim and it just sort of abuts the mirror trim. (I don't like the mirrors, DH does.) Where the overlay sheetrock ends at the kitchen on each side, he tacked up a quarter-sawn piece of trim, and textured the overlay using a roller. :roll: It's not the worst texture job I've seen, but it gets an honorable mention.

Oh, and he sheetrocked over the afore mentioned stock window (which looks over the crappy carport that goes with this space and needs to be rebuilt). The newer vinyl windows on the other side of the house were installed with the fin exposed, every hole has a screw and the caulk looks like it was applied with his willy. :shock: The way the texture is thicker and even less uniform around where that window is, I suspect that he sheetrocked around it then decided to cover it afterward. I will probably be putting a vinyl window there as it's the only window on that side of the home and I don't like having a 'blind side'. I'd like to be able to see out that window if someone is messing around the carport.

The OEM sheetrock is wallpaper clad in a dated print with a woven texture. In the kitchen the lower half of the wall is paneled as a faux wainscot. I haven't pulled the electrical outlet covers in the livingroom yet to see what's behind (the outlets are recessed so the guy didn't put spacers in them to compensate for the extra sheetrock) to see if the 'wainscot' goes into the livingroom and all the way down the hall.

I don't know what the motivation to do the overlay was. I can only estimate that he did it because he didn't want to deal with the wainscoting (or there are big holes in the walls :cry: ). If it had been me, I would have used a thin coat of mud to fill in the texture of the wallpaper, then installed bead-board and chair rail over the faux wainscot (but DH doesn't like wainscot/chair rail so that's out). There's also the unknown condition of the walls under the sheetrock. (The guy we bought it from was no help in that. He just bought it to live in until he hit retirement age and didn't do anything with it.)

The interior wall has a layer of embossed (tulips) wall paper which is peeling at the seams and was painted over at some time, so that need to be removed as well.

So I'm wondering if I should take this sheetrock down and start from scratch or just sand down the bad texture. (I've got a new 18v DeWalt orbital that would work on this. What grit should I use? I've got some 60 but that may be too fine.)

I'll be doing the light duty work and have a handyman friend who is going to help with heavier stuff. DH won't be involved with it - other than asking when it's going to be done. ;) He has no mechanical aptitude at all, bless him. If you hand him a screwdriver, it better be in a glass with orange juice and vodka! :lol: We're the Odd Couple. I'm Oscar and he's Felix. He wears the apron and I wear the tool belt. He fixes dinner. I fix everything else. (And the way he cooks is more than compensation!!!!)

Here are a couple of pix the seller posted on craigslist so you can see a little of what I'm talking about:
[attachment=1]1981 2-1 952sf. Living.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=0]1981 2-1 952sf. Fporch.jpg[/attachment]
So what input do you have for me on this? Should I leave the sheetrock up or take it down? Any other input is welcomed!

Thanks in advance!

PS: And OldFart thinks HE's long-winded???
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Greg
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

Oldfart has been quiet for a LONG time, someone needs to hunt him down and get a post out of him!!!

The home looks to be in good shape. I agree, open up the wall and get the window back. I personally don't care for the idea of double layers if sheetrock in a home that old, so I would most likely take it down to the studs and rerock. At that point you could remount /replace the electrical boxes so they sit where they are supposed to.

The outside of the windows are an easy fix with some trim boards.


Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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Greg S
Posts: 541
Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2008 10:13 am
Location: Kingston Ontario Canada

At the very least I would take down the top coat of drywall. Start by removing the drywall on the small wall opposite the camera in the picture to get an idea of what you are dealing with. That way if the original wall is not usable you will have options.
An individual must enforce his own meaning in life and rise above the perceived conformity of the masses. (Anton LaVey)
Ostracon
Posts: 7
Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2012 2:38 pm

Thanks for the reply Greg and Greg S., I'll combine my responses in one post.
Greg wrote:The home looks to be in good shape. I agree, open up the wall and get the window back. I personally don't care for the idea of double layers if sheetrock in a home that old, so I would most likely take it down to the studs and rerock. At that point you could remount /replace the electrical boxes so they sit where they are supposed to.
I agree that a tear out to the studs would be ideal, which I would do if I was single but I'm married and would like to stay that way. :wink: After some consideration, we really don't have the time (or the money as I would have to pay my handyman to do that before moving in and do the bathroom as well).
Greg S wrote:At the very least I would take down the top coat of drywall. Start by removing the drywall on the small wall opposite the camera in the picture to get an idea of what you are dealing with. That way if the original wall is not usable you will have options.
The wall opposite the camera doesn't have sheetrock overlay. The back side of that wall is the small second bedroom. It's the one with the aftermarket embossed tulips wallpaper that is painted over. I'm stripping that off. It's only the exterior walls that have sheetrock.

Now DH is saying he doesn't want the window put back in. He's planning on putting the media center along that wall and doesn't want the glare coming in from a window (it's south-western facing), so I guess I'll have to live with it the way it is for now and hope he changes his mind once we've been there a while. In the mean time, what should I do to make sure there isn't any condensation building up with it?

I'll probably just knock down the bad texture and paint for now. I want to remodel the kitchen at a later time and then would be a good time to continue into the livingroom with the tear out as there wouldn't be that much extra to do comparatively. Remodeling the livingroom & kitchen is something we could do next summer (just live in the back of the home while it's being done, and plan on cooking on the BBQ :D ).

What we have to look at logistically is make a priority of what we are going to need to have done that would be inconvenient to do once we're in, like remodeling the single bathroom (I'll post another thread with my questions on the bathroom).
Greg wrote:The outside of the windows are an easy fix with some trim boards.
Good idea. That's what I was thinking after taking a look at the ones that have been done here in this park. It's something I could have my handyman do at the same time he replaces the bathroom window. Should I have him router out a 'groove' in the trim to go over the screw heads to allow the trim to sit flush against the siding?
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Greg
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Lowes has 1x4 white PVC trim boards, I have to replace 2 wood/aluminum wrapped on ours. I'm thinking of trying them and see how they work. I think they will be cheaper & faster than wood & aluminum wrap.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
Ostracon
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Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2012 2:38 pm

Great idea! I'll check them out.
HouseMedic
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Location: Delaware
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You can get an end cap that go's over the end of the drywall and then you just use some drywall compound to feather the edge in and paint. I have done this a few times and it does not look bad at all. It is like this here. You can purchase it just about anywhere drywall is sold.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_16014-325-1108_ ... Id=3014650

Ron
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